The boiler should now have a coating of flannel, cut to shape and wrapped round the body part, and a casing of sheet tin put over it and secured by brass bands, and small nuts underneath, as shown in [Fig. 20].
Fig. 37.
The steam supply-pipe can now be connected with the cylinders, and it should be made forked, as in [Fig. 37]. A leads from steam-pipe, and branches off to each cylinder, where it must be screwed up with white lead.
The exhaust-pipes (B B) should be of larger tubing, and bent round up the sides of smoke-box, so as to be out of the way when you require to clean the tubes. A small brass pipe (C) must also be passed through chimney, and bent upwards and fitted with tap, which should take steam from top of boiler, and be used as shown at D and F ([Fig. 20]). This helps to raise steam very quickly.
Fig. 38.
[Fig. 38] is a rear view of the foot-plate, and shows the necessary fittings you must either make or buy to complete the model. The cocks you can manage easily, but the water-gauge is beyond most amateurs’ skill to turn out satisfactorily. A is the furnace-door, B two gauge-taps, C starting lever-handle, D spring-balance safety-valve, F wind-guard (with two look-out hobs), G steam-whistle handle, H pressure-gauge, K steam-blast handle, M glass water-gauge, N the quadrant and-lever for reversing the engine, O the rear buffer beam (with buffers), P the wheels showing axle, R R the springs for same, and V is the safety-guard rail on either side.
When these fittings are made, holes must be drilled in rear-plate for each, and then firmly screwed in place with white-lead: and the glass tube in water-gauge and the stuffing-box in gland of starting-lever should be packed with tallow and cotton wick.