[Fig. 2 enlarged] (41 kB)

The first thing to be done is to make the inner keel, or keelson (a b of [Fig. 2]). This can be made of deal, and should be planed perfectly straight. Its greatest length is 10 ft. 101⁄2 in. on the upper side; its breadth is 1 in., and thickness 11⁄2 in. The bow end is to be cut off square, and the stern to be cut to a level of 7 in. in a foot, or an angle of 120 degrees from the horizontal. Commencing at 11 in. from the bow end, on the upper side, bore a hole three-eighths of an inch in diameter straight through, and countersink it on the upper side; then make nine more holes of the same size at distances of one foot apart. These are the holes through which strong screws 3 in. long will be driven, in order to bind together, after the canvas is put on, the keelson (a b) and the keel (A B).

The stem piece (C, [Fig. 2]) should be made of oak, and of the shape shown in the figure, which is drawn to a scale of three-eighths of an inch to a foot. The curve is 9 in. radius, and the total depth 1 ft. 3 in. One strong screw, driven through the inner keel, or keelson (a b), at the point C1, will be sufficient to secure it, as, when the keel is screwed on, another screw at C2 will give it the necessary strength to resist shocks and blows.

Fig 3 Stern.

The stern piece is formed of two parts (D and E, [Figs. 2] and [3]), both of which should be made of oak three-quarters of an inch thick. The angle of the bevel of the stem is 120 degrees, or 7 in. in a foot, and when the stern pieces are fixed in their places on the keel, the slope should be in one line, and the piece E perfectly at right angles to the keel. D is fixed to the keelson by two strong screws at d and d2. The width of the transom, or stem piece, E, is at the top 2 ft., and its depth 10 in. As, of course, the outline is the same on either side of the centre line, it will only be necessary for me to describe the shape of one side.

Beginning, then, at the top on the left-hand side of [Fig. 3], the outline runs straight for 3 in., sloping inwards at a level of 1 in 3. After this it follows a curve of 6 in. radius, having its centre at e3, until at e5 the curve again bends outwards at the same radius, and with its centre at e6 following this curve to the bottom of the piece, where, at 10 in. from the top, the width between the two outlines will be three-quarters of an inch, or the same as the thickness of D.

Before screwing these two pieces together eight notches must be cut in the transom (E) for the reception of the ends of the laths, four on each side of the centre line. As, in the course of the construction of the boat, notches will several times have to be cut, with intervals of untouched wood, it will be advisable at the first to fix upon some method by which such notches and spaces may be described. Let, therefore, the spaces to be cut out for notches be enclosed in brackets thus: (11⁄4 in.,) 21⁄2 in., (11⁄4 in.,) the figures representing the breadth of the notch in inches, while the spaces between the notches are represented by the unenclosed figures.

The notches are throughout 1⁄4 in. deep; those in the transom (E) are, owing to the level of the stern, not straight across the wood, and must be marked out with the bevel, not the square.

Commencing then at the top left-hand corner of the transom (E) at the point e6 on [Fig. 3], we have the notches to be cut as follows: (11⁄4 in.,) 21⁄2 in., (11⁄4 in.,) 21⁄2 in., (11⁄4 in.,) 21⁄2 in., (11⁄4 in.,) 3 in., or four notches and four spaces, the same having, of course, to be cut in the same order on the other side.