To proceed at once to my directions. It will be best to build under cover, though this is not a necessity. For the keel take a piece of straight deal or pine, free from imperfections, 10 ft. × 2 in. × 1 in. For stem and stern post, which should be alike, pieces of oak or elm should be cut to the pattern shown ([Fig. 1]) from a piece with a curved grain (to be had for about 6d.) 1 ft. 6 in. × 1 ft. × 3⁄4 in.; 3 in. at the ends should be bevelled off and fitted to the ends of the keel, taking care that the latter forms one plane with them. They are best fixed in their place by driving copper nails through, and tapping their ends over perforated caps known as ‘burs,’ which can be easily obtained; but wire nails clenched will do here, as in other parts of the work.
Fig. 2.
Fig. 3.
Next from 1⁄2 in. deal plank cut out two shapes to fit over keel (allowing it to project 1⁄4 in.), according to patterns ([Figs. 2] and [3]). Strips of 3⁄4 in. should be nailed on each side of the sockets cut for the keel, coming rather nearer at their other ends. The use of these is both to strengthen the shapes themselves and to make them fit firmly and tightly to the keel, also to make supports for the coamings round the well, to be described later.
Fig. 4.
The shapes should be placed with strips turned towards the ends of the canoe and at right angles to the keel, the larger one 10 in. behind the middle point of the keel, and the smaller one 2 ft. 10 in. in front of the same point ([Fig. 4]). Take care that the middle points of the shapes are in a straight line with the stem and stern post. A good nail may now be driven right through the two ends of each pair of strips, clipping the keel tightly between them. Next take two clean strips of deal rather longer than the canoe. They should be perfectly free from knots or imperfections, or much trouble will be occasioned afterwards. Say 11⁄2 in. × 3⁄4 in. Fit them on as in [Fig. 4], bevelling off the ends, and nailing into stem and stern post.