Fig. 15.
For the paddle, for which I think about 7 ft. 6 in. long over all is a good length, take a light, clean piece of yellow pine or fir 11⁄2 in. × 11⁄4 in., not more, and 6 ft. long. In the ends of this cut slots 6 in. long, each to receive two pear-shaped pieces of very light 1⁄2 in. plank 1 ft. 3 in. × 8 in. Nail them through with copper nails if possible. The blades should be at right angles to the thickest direction of the handle. Before nailing-in shave down the handle from an oval of 11⁄2 in. × 11⁄4 in. for 2 ft. of the middle to an oval of about 11⁄8 in. × 7⁄8 in. near the beginning of the blades. The handle should have its full thickness at the beginning of the blade but should be well tapered off along the blade, so as to be quite thin at its middle, where it ends. It should have its full breadth across the breadth of the blade. The blade itself may be shaved off thinner towards the edges. I do not think that for ordinary purposes any strip of copper or tin need be put round the blade, and the weight is increased by using it. The great thing about a paddle is that it should be as light as possible, and, if it appears able to stand it, it may be reduced still further. It may be painted or varnished, all but two feet in the middle. I find no rings on the paddles necessary.
A short strip nailed outside the gunwale in the middle of the canoe is a good thing; it prevents wear from the paddle, and forms something to catch hold of in lifting the canoe. A short outer keel is also a good thing at each end to prevent wear; but in making holes for the nails through the canvas into the keel care must be taken to turn in the edges round each hole, to tack with a close circle of tacks, and paint well, so as to render the place watertight.
An apron is seldom wanted, but may be made of canvas rendered waterproof with boiled oil if desired. It is well to fasten some inflated bladders in each end, so as to make the canoe a diminutive lifeboat, in case of an upset or of a hole being knocked in her.
The canoe will now be ready for launching. The owner should learn to put her carefully into the water and take her out by himself—to carry her on his shoulder. Superfluous wood may be cut from the central parts of the shapes, and also from along the keel towards the ends before covering. The floor forms a considerable item in the weight, consequently this should be made no wider or thicker than necessary. In paddling, learn to reach well forward and back, with a good swing of the body from side to side.
Such a canoe as described will be found to wear well, and one made by myself for a friend two years ago is now in use, and quite watertight.
