Fig. 4.
Fig. 5.
You can now proceed to make this false bottom, taking great care that the front part, which is of hard wood ([Fig. 2], C), fits the space you left for it exactly, and without a flaw. The mechanism of this false bottom is so simple that instead of describing it or illustrating it, I beg to refer you to your friend Smith’s cage. A glance will suffice. But remember not to spare the glue on that either.
Well, a glance at the complete cage ([Fig. 2]) will show you that there is a wire partition at D dividing the cage into two compartments, a big and a small. This partition, however, does not go right to the bottom of the cage, because it is a sliding one and draws out. It runs at top and bottom in grooves made by three pieces of wood, one of the pieces of the lower groove being deeper than the others, and quite filling up the vacancy between the false bottom and the wire partition, so as to prevent a bird from creeping through under.
This wire partition, then, had better be made next. It is simply a carefully measured and carefully adjusted square frame, neatly wired in the same way as the barred front of the cage is wired, of which I shall presently speak. You make the little frame first, then you bore your holes and wire it, and next you nail and glue a little front piece of hard wood on to it with a small wire-work handle in the centre, whereby to pull it out.
The grooves in which this is to run should now be made top and bottom, the lower one fastened to the cross board (A), and the upper to the back of the cage at one end and to the front when finished at the other.
Now for the front. This is to be made separately, and then slipped in. There is another plan, but I think I give the better of the two. Glance again at [Fig. 2]. Take a look at friend Smith’s cage as well. Now scratch your elbow thoughtfully, gather all your scattered senses together, and all your brains, and proceed to business. There is a top bar and a lower bar, and two strong cross wires; but mark this, please—these cross wires are not continuous all the way, there must be a space left for your wire partition to slip out and in.
Well, you have your wires all ready. Measure the length you want them, and cut them all of a size a little longer than they are actually required. They have to pass right through the upper bar ([Fig. 2]), and be fastened into the lower ([Fig. 2]), and as the same space—namely, half an inch—must exist between each wire, before you bore the holes for them you must carefully mark the places on both bars, and this is done either with a pair of compasses, or more surely and securely with the prongs of a two-toed fork. While making or wiring the front, be sure first that the top and bottom bars are exactly the same length, then lay them fair and square on your bench or table, and tack them down with small nails: so shall you do your work firmly and well. Bore the holes very even which you have marked off, then put each wire through separately and snip off with your pliers what is not wanted. The wires, by means of your hand-vice, should previously be made as straight as possible. When you have got all your upright wires in put on your cross pieces. These are simply laid on over the others and whipped in position with a long thread of very fine wire.
Now your front is all ready. Of course you have not forgotten the little ring-like spaces at the bottom, through which the canary pops its head to get a drop of water from the fountains. These last may be glass, and they are slung in wire loops from the cross-board.