Let the spirit of competition lead young climbers to strive after excellence in this direction, rather than, as is too commonly the case, induce them to take “Times” as the criterion of mountaineering proficiency. There are instructors enough. Even from an inferior guide an infinite amount may be learnt; at the least such a one can recognise the real danger of the Alps, and in this respect possesses a faculty which is one of the chief the mountaineer has to acquire. Let the spirit in which the Alps are climbed be of some such nature as that I have attempted to indicate, and accidents such as those recorded in Mr. C. E. Mathews’ grim list will be of such rare occurrence that they will never be called up to discredit mountaineering. If, perchance, any words here written shall prompt in the future the climber to perfect his art more and more while frequenting [pg 327]the old haunts, and to extend and utilise mountaineering still more, then at least the writer may feel, like the mountain when it had brought forth the ridiculous mouse, that his labour has not been wholly in vain. Yet more: his gloomy forebodings shall be falsified, and with respect to the future of mountaineering the outlook will be bright enough.

LONDON: PRINTED BY
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Footnotes

[1.]Franz Andermatten died in August 1883. His name is mentioned elsewhere in these sketches, but I leave what I have written untouched: for I do not hold with those who would efface the recollection of all that was bright and merry in one taken from us.[2.]In the old house, be it noted—not the modern luxurious combination of a granite fortress and a palace.[3.]Travels in the Alps, p. 119.[4.]Described in anatomical text-books as forming the swelling of the calf.[5.]It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right in this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more at this part of the ascent.[6.]Hector Berlioz.[7.]This is Mr. Edward Whymper’s measurement. Humboldt, as quoted by Mr. Whymper, gave 21,460 feet as the height. (Alpine Journal, vol. x. p. 442.)[8.]The Frosty Caucasus, by F. C. Grove, p. 236.[9.]Travels in the Air, edited by James Glaisher, F.R.S., p. 57 (2nd ed.).[10.]Op. cit. p. 9.[11.]I understand that the expedition has since been accomplished in a much shorter time.[12.]In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher’s ascent from Wolverhampton the balloon when at the height of 29,000 feet was mounting at the rate of 1,000 feet a minute.[13.]I am aware of M. Paul Bert’s researches; but these questions are not to be settled in the laboratory.[14.]Vide Alpine Journal, vol. xi. p. 78. “The Alpine Obituary,” by C. E. Mathews.

Transcriber’s Note

The following changes have been made to the text:

	[page ix], page number “1” added
	[page xiv], page number “290” changed to “291”
	[page 31], “gulley” changed to “gully”
	[page 96], “sepulchra” changed to “sepulchral”
	[page 113], “complicate” changed to “complicated”
	[page 151], “thoughful” changed to “thoughtful”
	[page 216], “menta” changed to “mental”
	[page 255], “thier” changed to “their”
	[page 269], “in roduction” changed to “introduction”
	[page 310], parenthesis added before “2nd”
	[page 312], “developmen” changed to “development”, “gradua” changed to “[gradual]”