“As the head of the valley is approached, a short climb will convey the explorer to the ice of several small glaciers where he may study with ease their formation and action, look into miniature crevasses and see how moraines of rock detritus are formed by the downward flow of the ice.
“At the site of the Caves, Cougar Creek valley turns from a northeasterly to a southeasterly direction, and falls sharply 2,000 feet from Lookout point to the tank, as compared with 1,200 feet for the upper valley in the same distance, about two miles. The lower valley is V-shaped and has, for the most part, been carved out by the action of water erosion. The sides except immediately adjacent to the railway are timbered only in patches and are for the most part covered by closely growing alders, bracken and rank grass which have replaced the timber where the slopes have been swept clear by avalanches from the heights above. Through the latter half of this section of the valley the stream flows in a narrow canyon and the fall is steep. As soon as the corner is turned and the slopes of the Illecillewaet valley reached, a magnificent forest growth of Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga Douglasii), hemlock (Tsuga Mertensiana), cedar (Thuga gigantea), and a few scattered trees of white pine (Pinus strobus) is passed through.
Goat Falls—Near the entrance to the Caves.
“From a natural history point of view, the upper valley is exceptional, due largely to the absence of visitors in the past. The Rocky Mountain goat (Haplocerus montanus) may be seen frequently, and his tracks are everywhere along the heights. During one of our visits a grizzly bear (Ursus ferox) was killed by Deutschman. The black bear (Ursus americana) is plentiful at the head of bear creek across Baloo pass, and it may be safely assumed that he does not fail to visit Cougar valley. Of the smaller mammals, the hoary marmot or whistler (Arctomys Columbianus) is plentiful in both the upper and lower valley, and is here found in large numbers, larger in size and giving forth a louder and more shrill whistle than in the main range of the Rockies. Its startling note is very human and resembles much the noise that delights the heart of the small boy, produced by placing the fingers between the lips. Say’s squirrel (Spermophilus lateralis) and Parry’s marmot (Spermophilus Parryi) are also found, the latter in great numbers. The Little Chief hare (Logomys princeps) is frequently seen disporting itself among the rocks, and its comical antics and quaint squeak, resembling that of a toy rabbit, are very amusing.
“The birds are few, and in the upper valley are chiefly confined to the Ptarmigan (Lagopus leucurus), of which a flock may nearly always be seen, the water ousel or dipper (Cinclus Mexicanus), a funny little dark grey chap who flits from stone to stone along the cascades and falls of the valley, continually bobbing and dipping as though it were the object and aim of his existence. This bird has a very sweet note. Of other birds the black-headed jay (Cyanocitta stelleri annectens) and the Rocky Mountain Whisky Jack (Perisoreus Canadensis capitalis) are the most apparent.
“Taken as a whole, this wonderful valley is worthy of a visit quite independently of the attractions offered by the Caves, and it would be difficult to find a more representative or better type of valley to illustrate the various phases of nature in the Selkirks—scenery, geology, natural history and botany.”
It was in the year 1904 that Charles Henry Deutschman of Revelstoke, a British subject, while prospecting and hunting big game, discovered the Caves in series.
The next person to enter the Caves after Deutschman was A. Johnston, editor of the Revelstoke Mail-Herald. Next, in May, 1905, a party of twelve persons, including W. S. Ayres, the mining engineer, Howard Douglas, superintendent of Rocky Mountains Park, and R. B. Bennett, the Associated Press correspondent at Vancouver and now member of the Dominion House representing Calgary, visited the Caves. Most of this party, however, returned to Glacier on the following day and left Messrs. Ayres, Deutschman, Johnston, Benson and Field to make further explorations.
