August 10th, Noon.
We have been, all this morning, in sight of Almeria. The more, for two or three leagues on each side, is almost flat, with a very fine beach; but the town itself displays all the variety of hill, dale and water. It stands on a river, whose banks seem in high cultivation, and are over-hung by prodigious mountains; whilst the low ground, particularly to the east, rises in a gradual slope, covered with groves and avenues of olive, and cork-trees, interspersed with vines and green canes. This beautiful spot forms a kind of amphitheatre, enclosed by the Grenadines, whose rugged summits appear almost inaccessible.
On a steep ascent, at the West end of the town, stands a large Moorish castle, in very good repair. At present it is only respectable for its antiquity; but, in 1147, it made a most vigorous defence against Conrad the Third, assisted by the French, Genoese, and Pisans; and, after a glorious resistance, it was taken by assault, and all the Moors most inhumanly put to death. Vast riches were found in the place, particularly the famous Agate ship, which is still shewn by the Genoese, as one of the most valuable curiosities in Genoa. The castle of Almeria is an exact copy of that at Gibraltar, and, like it, is commanded by an height immediately above it.
Dusk. Early in the afternoon, a breeze sprang up, and we are now off Cape de Gatt, about six leagues from Almeria, and fifty-two from Gibraltar. On the point, the Spaniards have a small barbette battery. The land, for some miles on each side, is almost perpendicular; but, although we are near a league from the shore, we have soundings in sixteen fathoms. The easterly wind continuing, we have just tacked, and are standing to the South.
August 11th.
In the morning, we made Abido, an island of rocks, on the Barbary shore, Lat. 35° 44′, Long. 51′ W. and, in the afternoon, passed between the island and the main, which no British ship, I believe, ever did before. The passage is barely three leagues wide; but the shallowest water, three quarters of a mile from the rocks, was thirty-seven fathoms. The wind being contrary, we were several hours in working through.
August 12th.
During last night, we crossed from the African to the Spanish shore, where the wind has left us in a calm.
August 13th, Mid-day.
We are now in sight of Almazaron, a scattered village, at the bottom of a small bay, well flanked by some little works on the cliffs on each side. At 4 P. M. tacked in fifteen fathoms water, one mile off Cape Tignose. On the west side of this point, there is good anchorage, well sheltered from the east wind. The Spaniards have a white tower on the point, on which they have mounted two or three small guns; and, indeed, we have scarce seen a spot on the coast of Spain, that a boat could land on, but what is defended by a tower or a little battery. Slight as these works appear, they not only check the smugglers, but have frequently been of service in protecting the coasters from the depredations of the Barbary corsairs; while they also communicate intelligence, by signals, from one extremity of the kingdom to the other, in very few hours.