During this festival the operas are suspended; which has prevented our seeing more than two. The Theatre of St. Carlos, performers, dresses, &c. are, in every respect, superior to ours; and yet, instead of half-a-guinea, the price of admittance is only about eighteen pence.
In England, the singers are never obliged to exert themselves for any time together: here I have heard La Banti in a cantata that hath required a constant exertion for near half an hour; Tomeone, though less powerful, is more pleasing: in Pace caro mio Sposo, she is absolutely incomparable. The Coltalines make too many faces; and this is often the case with the men; but, however hideous in private parties, it is not much observed on the stage. Their dances are longer than ours, and, when they form part of the piece, are accompanied by voices.
It would be presumption to attempt to describe the manners of the Italians on so short an acquaintance. Suffice it to say, that we have been treated with the utmost attention; that the people are remarkably partial to our nation; and that being an English Officer is a sufficient introduction to the first company.
If the lower sort have sometimes taken advantage of our inexperience, it is no more than we have suffered at home; for, who are more imposing, particularly to foreigners, than the publicans, waiters, and all that class of people, in England?
In short, I should be apt to give a very high character of the Neapolitans, had I not been told that they do not merit the favorable opinion I have formed of them, and that the civility of the men often ends in winning your money, whilst that of the women proceeds from an amorous disposition, tinctured with avarice: but all this it would be ungenerous to believe, since we have not experienced an instance of either. The frailty of women I can pity, as well as condemn: but how a lady can sell her virtue, is, though perhaps it may be accounted for here, what Englishmen I hope will never comprehend.
The Princess Belmonté is particularly entitled to our regard. Her fortune renders her superior to any sordid views; and yet she has always been remarkable for the kindest attention to our countrymen. Her Highness invited us to a party at her casino, and shewed us a room entirely furnished in the English style, with the best productions of Bunbury, Hamilton and Strange.
We have been at several conversazioni, which, in the principal houses, include every other amusement. A suit of rooms is thrown open; the largest for a promenade in summer, and dancing in winter; the next for music; a third for billiards; a fourth for fruit, ices, &c. and the rest for cards and dice. But, if only four or five people meet together, the Italians call it a conversazione.
The Court has been at Castello Mare ever since we arrived. We mean to call there on our way out of the bay; and Lord Hervey, from whom we have received the greatest civilities, has promised to accompany us. His Lordship is one of the King's most intimate friends; and Lady Hervey, whose gentleness and good sense insure her the hearts of all those who have the honour to approach her, is particularly esteemed and respected by the Queen, and all the Italian nobility.
I mentioned before, that the Spaniards ceded Naples to the Emperor, by the Treaty of Utrecht; but Philip V. of Spain's second wife, Elizabeth Farnese, heiress to the Duke of Parma, giving him a pretence for invading Italy, in her right, he made a conquest of Sicily and Naples: but the other European Powers obliged him to form them into a separate kingdom, and to give it to Charles, his eldest son by the Princess of Parma.--A. D. 1735.
All Philip's children by his first marriage dying without issue, Charles succeeded to the crown of Spain, and resigned | A. D. 1759.| Sicily and Naples to his third son, Ferdinand IV. the present King, the eldest being an ideot, and the second becoming Prince of the Asturias, and heir to Spain.