Put a deep kettle on the fire, with two cups of lard in it, to get very hot. Wipe each smelt inside and out with a clean wet cloth, and then with a dry one. Have a saucer of flour mixed with a teaspoonful of salt, and another saucer of milk. Put the tail of each smelt through its gills—that is, the opening near its mouth. Then roll the smelts first in milk and then in flour, and shake off any lumps. Throw a bit of bread into the fat in the kettle, and see if it turns brown quickly; it does if the fat is hot enough, but if not you must wait. Put four smelts in the wire basket, and stand it in the fat, so that the fish are entirely covered, for only half a minute, or till you can count thirty. As you take them out of the kettle, lay them on heavy brown paper in a pan in the oven, to drain and keep hot, and leave the door open till all are done. Lay a folded napkin on a long, narrow dish, and arrange the fishes in a row, with slices of lemon and parsley on the sides.
FISH CAKES
2 eggs, bread-crumbs, and cold fish.
They are made from any cold fish, by making a nice white sauce, very thick. Take all the fish from the bones and mash up with salt and pepper, then put it into the sauce. Stir all up together, turn out in a dish, and let it get quite cold and hard.
Have ready your boiling fat; roll the fish mixture in your hands the shape you want the cakes; beat up 2 eggs and brush them over with the eggs and place in the bread-crumbs. This must be done twice, as then the fish cakes will not burst. Cook for five minutes.
SCALLOPED FISH
The fish is done just as the fish cakes are, in sauce, but it is turned out into a dish or pie-dish, which must be buttered, and a layer of bread-crumbs sprinkled over, with bits of butter put on the top. Place in an oven till it browns on the top.
PICKLED HERRINGS OR MACKEREL
Split open four or five herrings. Wash them and remove the back-bone. Roll up from the head end, with their roes inside. Place in a dish, cover them with vinegar, two bay-leaves, and a few peppercorns and a few slices of onions; put in the oven with a plate over the dish and cook till the onion is done; turn them out in any dish and pour the liquor over them.