In the summer the plants should be exposed to the sun; but to keep them from drying, place the pots in beds of sawdust, or refuse hops, tan, bark, or sand, whichever is most convenient to obtain.
PREPARATION.
Our young friends may desire to raise their own roses, so we will give them a few directions. The best time to take cuttings is from October to January. The wood must be ripened; cuttings are usually made with three or four eyes. These cuttings are best put into a cold frame, or in a box prepared with equal parts of sand, leaf mould, and loam; all they require is sufficient protection not to freeze. Cuttings placed in such frames about the last of October, will be rooted sufficient to pot by March. Cuttings can be placed in rows quite near together, say an inch apart, and the rows three inches apart. This space allows you to press the soil firmly about each stem. One thorough watering, when put in, to settle the soil closely around them, will usually be all that is necessary until they begin to root in the spring. Some varieties will root much easier than others. As soon as they are well rooted, they should be potted in two inch pots, shaded and watered for a few days, and gradually hardened off by exposing them to the air; in this way they can be sufficiently rooted to plant in the open ground in April or May. Layering is more easily done from about the middle of June to the middle of September, always using shoots of the young growth—that is, a growth of three or four weeks old, or such as are not so much ripened as to drop the leaves; or in other words, the cut should always be made at that part of the shoot where there are as green and healthy leaves below as above the cut. This condition of the shoot is very important, in order to produce a well-rooted layer.
Another mode of layering, not in general use, is, to place the layer where the incision is made, in a three or four inch pot, sinking the pot in the ground to the level of the rim; all the roots being confined in the pot, when the layer is lifted, no check is given to them. Layers so made may be planted out in the fall, and if a little mulching is given round the roots, not one plant in a hundred will fail; while if the layering is done in the usual way, without pots, a heavy percentage is almost certain to be lost during the winter. To the florist, without proper means of propagation, this method of layering roses in pots will be found very advantageous, as every layer so made will make an excellent flowering plant by spring, if kept in a green-house or cold-pit, during the winter, and will prove nearly as valuable to the purchaser as large one year old plants.
ROSE-BEDS.
Before planting a rose, be sure to find out its nature, or you may have a tall bush where you would desire a low shrub-growing rose. In arranging rose-beds, plant the tall standards in the centre. Then a row of high bush growing roses, then a row of half dwarfs, then a row of dwarf-growing roses. If this selection of the roses in such a bed is properly made, it will be pleasant to the eye from June to October. Of course the roses should be chiefly monthlies, or free-blowing perpetuals.
3.—FLOWER BEDS.
There are a great variety of opinions as regards the most effective way of planting flower beds. Some prefer to mix plants of different colors and varieties; others prefer the ribbon style of planting, now so generally seen in Europe.
If the promiscuous style is adopted, care should be taken to dispose the plants in the beds, so that the tallest plants will be at the back of the bed; if the leader is against a wall or background of shrubbery, the others graduating to the front, according to the height. In open beds, on the lawn, the tallest should be in the centre, the others grading down to the front, on all sides, interspersing the colors so as to form the most agreeable contrast in shades. But for grand effect, nothing, in our estimation, can ever be produced in promiscuous planting to equal that obtained by planting in masses or in ribbon lines. In Europe the lawns are cut so as to resemble rich green velvet; on these the flower beds are laid out in every style one can conceive; some are planted in masses of blue, scarlet, yellow, crimson, white, &c., separate beds of each, harmoniously blended on the carpeting of green. Then again the ribbon style is used in the large beds, in forms so various that allusion can here be made to only a few of the most conspicuous.
In a circular bed, say of twenty feet in diameter, the bordering can be of blue. Lobelia, attaining a height of six inches; next plant Mrs. Pollock Geranium (this does not grow very thrifty out of doors in New England), or Bijou Zonale Geranium, growing about nine inches high. If you plant Mrs. Pollock, on the next row to it plant Mountain of Snow Geranium; if the Bijou plant, a circle of the red-leaved Achyranthus; there are several varieties of this plant. Next the Coleus Verschaffeltii; the centre being a mound of Scarlet Salvia. Another style is to edge the bed with Alternanthera Spothalata (leaves pink and crimson), which grows low and thick for a border. Then the fern-like, white-leaved Centaurea Gymnocarpa; next row, the Crystal Palace Scarlet Geranium. Then Phalaris Arundinacea Picta, a new style of ribbon grass; next Coleus Verschaffeltii; in the centre a clump of Coma or Pampas Grass.