These are so called from coming from the Cape of Good Hope. The Gladiolus is the finest variety. These bulbs are easily cultivated in New England and the Middle States; they can be planted out as soon as all fear of frost is passed. They will bloom by the last of July, and by making successive plantings every two weeks to the middle of July, they can be had in perfection until the frost returns. Although they are not particular about soil, yet if choice can be had, a sandy loam, peat, or a soil of decomposed leaves, is better than a stiff clay soil.
In any soil, if it is well enriched, the flowers will increase in size and beauty.
These bulbs should be taken up as soon as the stems begin to wither in the fall; but should the stalk of the late plantings be yet green, the bulbs should be left adhering to the stalk until dried, which will ripen off the bulbs. They can be kept in winter under the stage of a green-house, or in a frost-proof cellar or closet, or in any dry place where potatoes will keep. It is impossible to mention varieties; all are good, and new varieties increase yearly.
10.—HOW TO GROW BULBS IN WINTER.
Bulbs can be grown in vases, bowls, dishes, cornucopias, &c., of whatsoever shape or form, from the small ornament that will hold a crocus, to the large family punch-bowl, capable of growing a dozen hyacinths. Wire or rustic work of any kind, lined or not with zinc, and filled with moss, will grow bulbs to perfection. A zinc frame can be made to fill the whole front of any window; and if filled with moss or sand, and planted with hyacinths, lily of the valley, crocuses, snow-drops, tulips, narcissus, and polyanthus, would in itself form a complete miniature winter flower-garden. These, with successive plantings, may be made so many connecting links between our autumn flowers and the early spring blossoms.
Take a common soup plate, place in it as many strong bulbs as it will hold easily, and fill in about half an inch of water. In a few days the roots begin to spread, and so clasp each other in the course of a few weeks, that they form a natural support. If the bulbs and plate are covered with moss, it improves the appearance. For winter bloom successive plantings can be made every two weeks, from September till January. After the early part of December, hyacinths intended for glasses had better be half grown in pots, then turned out and the roots carefully freed from the soil in tepid water, then placed in glasses. In this way they will blossom sooner. The soil used to cultivate bulbs should be light and rich, full half sand. Bulbs can be grown in moss by keeping it damp. They can be raised even in clear sand. Take any ornamental dish capable of holding moisture, and fill it with sand in a pyramidal form. In the centre plant a hyacinth, and at equal distances round it plant three or more, according to the size of the dish; fill up the space with crocuses, snow-drops, dwarf tulips, &c. In planting, the bulbs should be covered with sand, all but the tops. Then place the dish of bulbs in water five minutes, in order to fix the bulbs firmly in their position. Repeat this bath once a week, never allowing the sand to become dry. Place it in the dark for two weeks, then keep it in a cool, light, airy room.
There is no bulb so well adapted to house culture as the hyacinth. They grow easily in pots or glasses. They will grow in almost any light, sandy soil; but just in proportion as this is adapted to the plant, will the perfection of their culture be attained.
For pot growing, the hyacinth, to attain its greatest beauty, should be grown in pots seven inches in diameter, and the same depth. They will grow and blossom in pots of four or five inches in diameter. Only one bulb should be planted in a pot. Two or three can be grown in larger sized pots. Put over the hole in the bottom a good drainage, half an inch or more in depth, on this either a handful of leaf mould, very old cow manure, or the coarse part of the compost; then add the prepared soil, filling up the pot to within an inch of the top. On this place the bulb, covering it with soil all but the top; press the earth gently around it, and shake the pot slightly, to settle the soil, and finish with a good watering; then either plunge the pots three or four inches in some old hot-bed, and cover with leaves, or place them in the dark, covered carefully, but in a dry place, for several weeks, to allow the roots to make a vigorous start. Water them very slightly at first, then gradually inure them to the sunlight. As the flowers expand, place a saucer under each pot, which must be kept filled with water till the flowers begin to decay; then lessen the water till withheld entirely.
For planting in glasses, the last of October or early in November will do. Use only rain or spring water. Fill the glasses with water, and place the bulb so that the roots will just come in contact with it; set them in a dark closet, or on a shelf in a dry cellar, and let them remain till the roots have started, usually in three or four weeks; then remove them to any place which is well lighted and warm, keeping them from the sun till they look a deep green; turn them around now and then, and change the water once in three or four weeks. If you perceive the roots look slimy, and the water fetid, carefully remove the bulb, and place the roots in clear water of the same temperature; wash the roots gently; cleanse the glass before replacing the bulb.