Home Arts for Old and Young

by Caroline L. Smith

Cork bark can be obtained at any of the numerous cork factories; it is not expensive, and the refuse bark can be used in making many pretty models.

The beginner should select the simplest subjects for his first work, such as a rustic cottage, bridge, or simple ruins.

When a certain amount of proficiency has been attained, it will be easy to advance to higher themes, until the most elaborate designs may be attempted without fear of failure.

In this art, models or pictures, with some description of the proportions, are sufficient guides.

In this work no tools are required except a sharp penknife and a glue-pot.

The walls of buildings must be cut from the cork block. The proper thickness for the cork used in making walls is about one half, or even one quarter of an inch, and the smoothest cork should always be selected for this work.

When the required size has been obtained, square it smoothly to the shape called for, making the two side walls exactly alike. Next mark with a black lead pencil the shapes of the windows, doors, &c. Then cut the windows with a penknife, making the opening smaller on the inner side, but slanting outwardly, especially in the sill the slope is very considerable, and in gothic windows should never be flat or square. The waste and refuse pieces of common cork will all be of use in making the trimmings and ornamental work. For the mouldings around the windows, cut small rims of cork, like your model, and glue them on at proper distances from the outer edges. Thin sheets of mica glued on the inside of the windows, are excellent substitutes for glass; the appearance of stained glass can be given by gumming paper of the color you desire to represent, on the inside, over the mica. All ornaments can be formed of tiny shavings of cork. The gables, doors, &c., are prepared as the model may require. The most suitable base, on which to glue your building, is a board covered with green cloth or baize. The four walls can now be glued together and placed on the green cloth board. If not firm, small splints of wood, shaved so as to fit into the inner corners, will strengthen the edifice. The roof comes next, and can be made of smooth seasoned wood, about a sixteenth of an inch thick.

Cut the board large enough to extend well over the edges, so as to form eaves; glue one side firmly along the gable ends, then fit the peak of the other side. A roof with a high pitch adds much to the tasteful appearance of a rustic church. If there is to be a steeple, or spire, the tower, or base of the building should be formed of small pieces, cut so as to fit the slopes of the roof, and built as a mason joins bricks or square blocks in a wall. When the base is formed square and flat on top, the tapering spire should start from this foundation, with a round, or eight-sided piece of cork, whose four opposite sides are exactly the size of the square base on which it is to be glued; on this place another cork a trifle smaller; this in turn will be covered with another still less; so on until it tapers to a point.

Common bottle corks, of various sizes, are best to use for spires and columns.

The best way to make spires or columns, is to glue them in proper shape separately from the building; when all are joined, shave them carefully, so as to form the proper slope for the spire, and the columns can be cut with a knife to imitate fluted sides, or in any desirable way. When they are finished, glue them in the proper place on your buildings.