The balls should be about ten inches in circumference, perfectly spherical, and should weigh about eight ounces. They should be designated by different colors, either by painting the entire surface of the ball, or by a stripe of the color merely. But the first method is much to be preferred, as a ball needs all the protection it can have to preserve it from the effects of the weather, and for this purpose nothing is better than good oil paint and varnish. There is a universal predisposition towards large balls by all novices in the game; but experience will invariably give the preference to a ball not more than ten inches in circumference, if of rock maple or birch, and if of box-wood, not more than nine and one-half inches.
MALLET.
The mallet head should be about 2⅜ inches in diameter, and 4¼ inches long, shaped somewhat like a dice-box; and the handle 33 inches long, 15/16 of an inch in diameter in the largest part, and ⅝ of an inch in the smallest. It is customary to paint some portion of the mallets to correspond to the colors on the balls. This is a very great advantage in distinguishing the different players and assisting the memory to connect them with their respective balls, and we much prefer it; but some players prefer to leave the mallets undistinguished, and to allow each player to select his own,—choosing such weight, size and length as he may desire—and perhaps there is no objection to this. A feeble or delicate person may not be able to play as well with a mallet of the standard size as his opponent, and thus will be upon an unequal footing with him at the outset; while, if each selects such as is suitable to his or her condition, all will be satisfactorily equipped, and, of course, upon equal terms, as far as the implements are concerned. For balls and mallet heads good rock maple is the most desirable of all our native woods, and hickory is the best for mallet handles. Box-wood is very good for mallet heads, but is too heavy for balls. Box-wood mallet heads and good rock maple balls, well painted, make an elegant and superior set, and are preferable to a complete box-wood set, while rosewood and lignum-vitæ balls are little better than iron, and entirely unfit to use.
The bridges should be made of iron wire about 5/16 of an inch in diameter, in form like an ox-bow. The width of the bridge should be equal to the circumference of the ball, and the hight such that when firmly set it will stand out of the ground a distance equal to its width. They should be uniform in color. White is best, as it is more easily seen, and contrasts more pleasingly with the green of the turf. Some have adopted the practice of painting them of different colors, but the reason assigned seems not to be a good one, and experience almost unanimously pronounces in favor of a uniform light color.
THE BRIDGE.
One manufacturer has adopted and patented the happy idea of galvanizing or plating the iron bridges with zinc, which gives them a permanent light color, and at the same time perfectly preserves them from rust.
Some writers assert that withs or firkin hoops answer very well for bridges. They may answer as a very poor substitute, but a good croquet player would no sooner play with such materials than a billiard player with a slack rope for a cushion or an umbrella for a cue. In many of the scientific “shots” of the game, the player calculates upon the rigidity of the bridges, and an iron bridge, when set in sandy soil, is at best none too rigid; and with loose or springy bridges the game loses much of its attraction to a good player.