Landing at Montreal.—Appearance of the Town.—Ravages of the Cholera.—
Charitable Institutions in Montreal.—Catholic Cathedral.—Lower and
Upper Town.—Company and Conversation at the Hotel.—Writer attacked
with the Cholera.—Departure from Montreal in a Stage coach.—Embark at
Lachine on board a Steam-vessel.—Mode of travelling alternately in
Steam-vessels and Stages.—Appearance of the Country.—Manufactures.—
Ovens at a distance from the Cottages.—Draw-wells.—Arrival at
Cornwall.—Accommodation at the Inn.—Departure from Cornwall, and
Arrival at Prescott.—Arrival at Brockville.—Ship-launch there.—Voyage
through Lake Ontario.—Arrival at Cobourg
Nelson Hotel, Montreal, August 21.
Once more on terra ferma, dearest mother: what a strange sensation it is to tread the land once again, free from the motion of the heaving waters, to which I was now, in truth, glad to bid farewell.
By daybreak every creature on board was up and busily preparing for going on shore. The captain himself obligingly escorted us, and walked as far with us as the hotel, where we are at present lodged.
We found some difficulty in getting on shore, owing to the badness of the landing. The river was full of floating timbers, between which it required some skill to guide the boat. A wharf is now being built—not before it was needed*. [* Some excellent wharfs have since been completed.]
We were struck by the dirty, narrow, ill-paved or unpaved streets of the suburbs, and overpowered by the noisome vapour arising from a deep open fosse that ran along the street behind the wharf. This ditch seemed the receptacle for every abomination, and sufficient in itself to infect a whole town with malignant fevers*.
[* This has since been arched over. A market has been erected above it.]
I was greatly disappointed in my first acquaintance with the interior of Montreal; a place of which travellers had said so much. I could compare it only to the fruits of the Dead sea, which are said to be fair and tempting to look upon, but yield only ashes and bitterness when tasted by the thirsty traveller**.
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[** The following description of Montreal is given by M'Gregor in his British America, vol. ii. p. 504:—"Betwixt the royal mountain and the river, on a ridge of gentle elevation, stands the town. Including the suburbs, it is more extensive than Quebec. Both cities differ very greatly in appearance; the low banks of the St. Laurence at Montreal want the tremendous precipices frowning over them, and all that grand sublimity which characterizes Quebec.