but a table where whatever you do have will be good, be it pork and beans, or salmi; the pork and beans would satisfy a Bostonian, the salmi Grimod de la Reynière himself. I do not admit with Di Walcott that

"The turnpike road to people's hearts I find Lies through their mouths, or I mistake mankind."

But it is a fact that good living—by this I do not mean extravagant living—presupposes good breeding. Well-bred people sometimes live badly; but ill-bred people seldom or ever live well, in the right sense of the term.

Now, by way of valedictory, let me repeat that I do not think a lady's best or proper place is the kitchen; but it is quite possible to have a perfectly served table, yet spend very little time there. Only that one little hour a day that Talleyrand, the busy man full of intrigue and statecraft, found time to spend with his cook, would insure your table being well served. For, after devoting say a few winter months to perfecting yourself in a few things, you will be able to teach your cook, who is often ambitious to excel if put in the right way. A word here about cooks.

The knowledge that if they fail to do a thing well you will do it yourself, will often put them on their mettle to do their best; while the feeling that you don't know, will make them careless.

Servants have a great deal more amour propre than people imagine; therefore, stimulate it by judicious praise and appreciation; let them think that to send in a dish perfect, is a glory to themselves as well as a pleasure to you. While careful to remark when alone with them upon any fault that results from carelessness, be equally careful to give all the praise you can, and repeat to them complimentary remarks that may have been made on their skill. Servants are usually—such is the weakness of feminine nature, whether in the drawing-room or the kitchen—very sensitive to the praise or blame of the gentlemen of the family. Indulge poor humanity a little when you honestly can.

INDEX

Page
Almond creams,[93]
Altering recipes,[111], [112]
Asparagus, to boil,[66]
Baba,[86]
Small,[87]
Syrup for,[87]
Batter for frying à la Carême,[59]
Batter for frying à la Provençale,[60]
Beef, Bœuf à la jardinière,[74]
Beef, Bœuf au Gratin,[75]
Filet de bœuf Chateaubriand,[49]
Fritadella,[81]
Little breakfast dish of,[78]
Miroton of,[76]
Olives of,[79]
Pseudo-beefsteak,[75]
Ragout of cold,[78]
Salmi of cold,[73]
Simplest way to warm a joint,[77]
To warm over a large piece,[78]
Sirloin, to make two dishes,[49]
Biscuit glacé, à la Charles Dickens,[85]
Biscuit glacé, à la Thackeray,[85]
Blanc for white sauce,[31]
Boiling, asparagus,[66]
Cabbage,[65]
Potatoes,[66]
Peas,[65]
Rules for meat,[65]
Bouchées de dames,[88]
To ice,[89]
Bread,[12]
Baking,[14]
Cause of failure,[15]
Cause of thick crust,[14]
Compressed yeast,[15]
Kneading,[14]
Oven heating,[14]
Remarks,[12]
Rules of time for rising,[14]
To set sponge,[13]
Bread-crumbs for frying,[56]
Bread dough, to keep a day or two,[106]
Bread dough for pie crust,[97]
Soufflée,[20]
Brioche,[18]
Jockey Club, recipe for,[19]
Brioche for summer pastry,[19], [20]
Broiling,[60]
Chickens and birds,[61]
Brown flour,[34]
Sauce,[71]
Butter, maître d'hôtel,[32]
Montpellier,[33]
Ravigotte,[33]
Cabbage, to boil,[65]
Cakes, Baba,[86]
Bouchées de dames,[83]
Savarins,[88]
Candies,[92]
Chocolate creams,[94]
Cream almonds,[93]
Cream walnuts,[93]
Fondant,[92]
Fondant panaché,[93]
Punch drops,[94]
Simple French,[92]
Tutti frutti,[92]
Vanilla almond cream,[92]
Walnut cream,[92]
Celeraic, or turnip-rooted celery,[54]
Celery seed for soup,[106]
Celery cream soup,[68]
Chateaubriand, filet de bœuf,[49]
Chicken,[48]
Broiling,[60]
Cold,[49]
Pie,[38]
Potted,[44]
Roasting,[48]
Use of the feet,[48]
Clinkered fire-bricks,[107]
Cold meat salmi,[73]
Various ways of warming,[72]-[81]
Coloring for candy and icing,[95]
Company to lunch, and nothing in the house,[44]
Cromesquis of cold lamb,[75]
Crumbs for frying,[56]
Cucumber and onion ragout,[102]
Curaçoa, to make,[89]
Curry,[108]
Deviled meats,[80]
Dishes made without meat,[102]
Dripping, to clarify,[59]
Feuilletonage,[23]
Fire-bricks, to remove clinkers from,[107]
To mend,[107]
Flavoring,[70]
Flounders, to bone,[56]
As filet de sole,[56]
Forequarter of mutton,[101]
Frangipane tartlets,[26]
French herbs,[113]
Friandises,[84]
Fritadella of cold meat, twenty recipes in one,[81]
Frying,[55]
Batter à la Carême,[59]
Batter à la Provençale,[60]
Crumbing,[56]
Filet de sole,[56]
Flounders,[56]
Oil for,[58]
Oysters,[57]
Remarks on,[55]
To clarify dripping for,[59]
To test the heat of fat for,[57]
Galantine,[39]
Garlic,[108]
Glaze,[30]
To glaze ham, tongue, etc.,[32]
Gouffé's pot-au-feu,[68]
Rules for ovens,[27]
Gravy,[29]-[63]
Grating nutmegs,[105]
Ham, to boil,[65]
To glaze,[32]
To pot,[43]
Hash,[97]
Heart, beef,[100]
Sheep's,[99]
Iced soufflée,[85]
A la Byron,[84]
Icing,[89]
Ink, to remove from carpets,[107]
Jellied fish or oysters,[41]
Jelly for cold chicken,[47]
Jelly from pork,[31]
Kerosene lamps,[107]
Keeping meat,[106]
Poultry,[107]
Dough,[106]
Kitchen conveniences,[114]
Kreuznach horns,[16]
Kringles,[17]
Lamb, cromesquis of,[75]
Lamps,[107]
Larding needle,[112]
Leg of mutton,[52]
A la Soubise,[52]
Boiled,[52]
Lemons, to keep,[105]
Peels,[106]
Little dinners,[50]
Liver, sheep's,[98]
Luncheons,[35]
Maître d'hôtel butter,[32]
Management in small families,[47]
Maraschino, to make,[90]
Marrow from soup bone,[98]
Mayonnaise, new,[42]
Meat, to keep,[106]
Salad,[52]
Mephistophelian sauce,[81]
Miroton of beef,[76]
Montpellier butter,[33]
Mushroom powder,[29]
Mutton broth,[52]
Forequarter,[101]
Leg,[52]
Neck of mutton,[101]
Noyeau,[90]
Nutmegs, best way to grate,[105]
Omelet, new,[45]
Onion soup, maigre,[103]
Ornamenting meat pies,[37]
Ovens,[14]
Gouffé's rules for heating,[27]
Oysters, to fry,[57]
In jelly,[41]
Ox cheek,[100]
Panaché fondant,[93]
Parsley seed for soup,[106]
Parsley in winter,[113]
Paste, puff,[22]
To handle,[24]
Pastry tablets,[26]
Pâte à la Carême for frying,[59]
Pâte à la Provençale,[60]
Peas, to boil,[66]
Pease soup, maigre,[103]
Pie, bread dough for crust,[97]
Chicken, to eat cold,[38]
Fruit,[24]
English raised,[38]
To "raise" a,[39]
Veal and ham,[38]
Windsor,[36]
Pork for jelly,[31]
Potato salad,[54]
Snow,[45]
Soup, maigre,[103]
To warm over,[46]
Pot-au-feu,[68]
Pot roasts,[99]
Potted meats,[43]
Punch drops,[94]
Ragout of cold meat,[78]
Of cucumber and onion,[102]
Ravigotte,[33]
Remarks, preliminary,[1]-[12]
On boiling,[65]
On bread-making,[12]
On frying,[54]
On kitchen and servants,[114]
On little dinners,[50]
On luncheons,[35]
On maigre dishes,[104]
On management in small families,[47]
On sauces and flavoring,[70]
Remarks on soups,[67]
On table prejudices,[108]
On true economy in buying meat,[99]
On roasting,[62]
Rissolettes,[25]
Rolls,[15]
Roux,[34]
Rusks,[16]
Salad, Celeraic,[54]
Potato,[54]
Cold meat,[52]
Salamander, substitute for,[112]
Sauces,[70]
Flavoring,[70]
Brown or espagnole,[71]
Mephistophelian,[81]
White,[71]
Mayonnaise,[42]
Savarin (cake),[88]
Soufflée bread,[20]
Iced,[85]
A la Byron,[84]
Soup bone,[96]
Soup, celery cream,[68]
Consommé,[68]
Pot-au-feu,[68]
Onion,[103]
Pease,[103]
Potato,[103]
To color,[67]
To clear stock,[66]
Sugar boiling for candy,[91]
Tainted meat, to restore,[107]
To make strong vegetables milder,[106]
Tutti frutti candy,[92]
Vanilla almond cream,[92]
Veal,[53]
Warming over,[72]
What to do with scraps,[45]
Where to buy articles not in general use,[112]
Why meat does not brown in cooking,[62]
Windsor pie,[36]