Thence I went up staires into a Large dineing roome, Damaske Chaires and window Curtaines, wanscoated, and severall fine pictures. The Rooffe of this was well painted also, but they are soe Lofty its enough to Breake ones neck to Looke on them. Thence into a Gallery full of Pictures wth a Large Looking Glass at ye End. Thence into ye Drawing roome where is the Large Branch of silver, and ye sconces round ye roome of silver, silver table, and stands, and Glass frames, and Chaire frames. Next is ye queenes Chamber of state, all Indian Embroidery on white Sattin being presented to her by ye Compy. On it is Great Plumes of white ffeathers, there is very good tapistry hangings full of gold and silver, but they are Large old ffigures. Here’s a silver table, and stands, and Glass fframe. There was a raile set a Cross at ye beds ffeete wch reached Each side of ye roome, made of sweate wood frames and open Wires in ye middle, and was to be Doubled together in Leaves as a screen: this was instead of ye raile use to be quite round ye King and queens beds to keep off Companyes Coming near them.
Thence into an anti-roome through a Little Gallery or passage, thence into ye Kings dressing roome almost all Glass; ye Chimney piece is full of Great stone heads in nitches or hollows made for them, of some Emperours. Ye windows of all ye roomes are Large sashes as big as a good Looking-glass and are all diamond Cut round the Edges, the height of ye windows makes them Looke narrow. Thence into the kings Constant bed Chamber, being one of ye halfe bedsteads of Crimson and Green damaske, jnside and outside the same hangings, and Chaires and window Curtaines the same; it was Lofty and full with good ffringe, and there was such another screen or raile at ye ffeete of the bed that tooke ye Length of the roome as in the queens Chamber; here was tables, stands, Glass frames, Gilt gold, fine Carving on the Chimney pieces, both here and in ye queens’ appartment. Ye next was ye Chamber of State wch is noble. Indeed, very Lofty and painted on ye roofe as they all are. The bed was green velvet Strip’d down very thick with Gold orrice Lace of my hands breadth, and round the bottom 3 such orrices and Gold ffring all round it and gold tassels; so was the Cornish. The jnside was ye same, at the head piece was Like Curtaines ffringed round wth gold and tyed back wth Gold strings and tassells as it were tyed back and soe hung down in the middle, where was the Crown and sypher Embroyder’d; the hangings ye same and such another screen aCrosse the roome to secure the bed from ye Common. Next this is the drawing roome of state, the Cannopy and throne and ye part behind is all green velvet Richly Embroyder’d with silver and Gold, of high Emboss’d work, and some Curiously wrought Like needlework that you Can scarce see ye Ground or stuff its wrought on, and the Crown of Crimson velvet Embroyder’d just over the Chaire or throne of state; the ffoot-stoole the same, wch was all set on a half pace or part raised above ye rest as the manner is, with, a fine Carpet over it. The Cannopy was so rich and Curled up and in some places soe ffull it Looked very Glorious, and was newly made to give audience to the Ffrench Embassadour to shew ye Grandeur and magnificence of the British Monarch—some of these ffoolerys are requisite sometymes to Create admiration and regard to keep up the state of a kingdom and nation.
Thence I went into the Common audience roome, where was a throne on such a raised space wth a Carpet. This throne and Canopy and ye back with Stooles and Chaires was Crimson and Gold Coullour’d ffigured velvet. Out of this I Came into a Large roome for people to wait in, painted with black and white and gold—Description of some ffights and men in armour. Thence into the Kings Guard Chamber wch is deckt as the Queens, the walls being adorned wth ye severall armes put in Exact order, only in ye pillars or spaces here they hang the Bandaleers which holds their powder. In the mantle piece there was noe difference, but in ye middle was the starre and soe set about with ye pistols and swords. Thence I descended Large staires of stone, and soe through a Court back to ye walk of pillars, and soe through the Large jron gate into the Courts one without another all built round.
Winsor town Lookes well, the streetes Large, the Market Cross on stone pillars and a Large hall on the top; from thence the streete runs along to ye Bridge over the Thames and there you Enter Buckinghamshire and a quarter of a mile off, tho’ jndeed there is building all along. There is Eaton Colledge a good stone building Carved on ye outside, its round a square. There is at the ffront a Large schoole roome—400 schollars and 8 fellows wch have 400 a piece yearely. Ye master has 1000£, he payes all the ushers, in number seven; there is alsoe an under master for the Little schollars, this was ffounded by King Edward the Confessour and Endowed so richly by him, and on the same ffoundation is the revenues of ye Cathedrall and ye poore knights wch goe in a peculiar black gown like fryers. All their salleryes and ye repaire of the Cathedrall is taken Care of by ye same ffoundation, wth ye Colledge, not but there is a Little Chappel to ye Colledge wth in itself for Every dayes prayers. The Chappel and schoole room takes up two sides of the square, the two others is the Lodging for ye ffellows and for ye schollars; then ye middle there is an arch wch Leads to ye Cloyster and soe into their kitchen and Cellars which are very Convenient and high but pretty old. Just by is the great Hall in wch they eate, the schollars and fellows and masters should eate with them. This is the same ffoundation as Kings Colledge in Cambridge so yt those schollers that are fitt to be removed to ye University at ye Election are sped to Kings Colledge in Cambridge and so are advanced as they Can get friends into ffellowshipps to Either. Ffrom Windsor I went to ye fferry 3 mile and Rode in sight of ye Castle on this side wch is all ye K: and Q: appartments and Lookes very noble, ye walls round wth ye battlements, and Gilt balls and other adornments. Here I fferry over ye Thames and so went a nearer way which is a private road Made for ye kings Coaches and so to Colebrooke 3 mile more. Thence to Houndslow-heath and so to London 12 mile more, then I went to Bednallgreen 4 miles and home againe 4 mile more, and here ends my Long journey this summer in wch I had but 3 dayes of wet except some refreshing showers sometymes, and I thinke yt was not above 4 in all the way and it was in all above 1551 miles and many of them Long miles, in all which way and tyme I desire wth thankfullness to own ye good providence of God protecting me from all hazard or dangerous accident.
It Cannot be thought amiss here to add some remarke on ye metropolis of England. London whose scituation on so noble a river as the Thames wch Emptyes it at ye Boy of ye Nore, being there joyned wth ye Medway another very fine river alsoe, and falls there into ye sea wch is about 30 miles from London, and is an Ebbing flowing river as farre as Sheen beyond London. This is very Comodious for shipps wch did Come up just to ye bridge, but from Carelessness ye river is Choaked up, that obliges ye shipps to Come to an anchor at Blackwall. All along this river are severall docks for building shipps of ye biggest burden; six miles from the town ye Last yeare was built ye Royal Souveraign wch is our greatest ship. London joyned wth Westminster, which are two great Cittyes but now wth building so joyned it makes up but one vast building with all its Subburbs, and has in ye walls ninety seven Parishes, without ye walls 16 parishes, 15 subburbs, Surrey, Middlesex, 7 parishes in Westminster.
London is ye Citty properly for trade, Westminster for ye Court, ye first is divided into 24 wards to each which there is an alderman, and themselves Consist of Common Council men and all freemen of the Citty, and have power to Choose these aldermen and make their own orders and to maintain their own priviledges. All freemen or Livery men of this Citty hath a Right to Choose their sherriffs of wch Every yeare there is two, one for Middlesex ye other ye Corporation, but both are joyned and officiate together in all matters of juries justice or Ceremonies, and to maintaine all Rights. These freemen alsoe have their voyce in Choice of their Lord Major wch is done Every yeare with this Sollemnity, the Sheriffs being Chosen and sworne at Mid summer, ye Michaelmas after ye Lord Major is Chosen and sworne; ye evening before which is Simon and Judes day is a feast Called Calveshead feast. Next day ye old Lord Major Comes to meete ye new one and wth him on his Left hand is Conducted on horse back in all their gowns of scarlet Cloth Lined wth ffurr; all ye aldermen in Like Robes only differenc’d as their station, those of them wch have been Lord Majors weare a Gold Chaine Ever after, but those yt have not passed ye Chaire weare none. Ye Lord Major is allwayes one of ye aldermen and he has a great gold Chaine round his neck, the Sheriffs also weare a gold Chaine round their neck yt yeare. Thus on horseback they proceed two and two wth all their officers. Ye Lord Major has his Sword bearer wch walkes before him wth the Sword in an Embroyder’d Sheath he weares a Great velvet Cap of Crimson, the bottom and ye top of ffurr or such Like standing up Like a turbant or Great bowle in forme of a Great open Pye, this is Called ye Cap of Maintenance. This is ye Lord Majors Chiefe officer, he holds his place Dureing his Life and has 1500 a yeare allowed him for his table wch in all things is as good as Lord Major’s and he Entertaines all people at it, yet he himself must officiate at the Lord Majors table to see all things in order and Comes in at sett tymes accordingly to performe them and bring ye Lord Majors Compliments to ye Campanyes. He thus walkes before the Lord Mayor wth ye water Bayliff beareing a Gold Mace &c. At Fleete ditch they Enter ye Barges wch are all very Curiously adorned and thus he is Conducted ye river being full of Barges belonging to ye severall Companyes of London, adorned with streamers and their armes and fine musick, and have sack to drinke and Little Cakes as bigg as a Crown piece. They Come to Westminster staires where they Land and are Conducted, the Lord Majors traines being borne up as well ye old as new Lord Major, they Enter Westminster Hall and are Conducted to ye severall Courts of justice where there is severall Ceremonyes perform’d. The new Lord Major is presented to ye King or those deputed to act under him and then is sworne, all which being over they are Conducted back to their Barges and soe to ye staires they took barge, where they are received by some of ye nobility deputed by the king who make some Little speech of Compliment and Give ye Lord Major and aldermen a treate of wine and sweet meates passant. They mount on horseback and returne only ye new Lord Major takes ye right hand and haveing by ye sheriffs invited ye King and Court to dinner, wch sometymes they accept but mostly refuse, because it puts the Citty to a vast Charge; they being then Conducted through ye Citty wth Greate acclamations their own habits and trappings of their horses being very fine, and they haveing all the Severall Companyes of ye Citty wch walke in their order and gowns wth pagents to most or many of their Companyes, wch are a sort of Stages Covered and Carryed by men and on ye top many men and boys acting ye respective trades or Employts of Each Company, some in shipps for ye Merchts and whatever Company the new Lord major is off his pageant is ye finest and yt Company has ye precedency that yeare of all ye Companyes Except ye mercers Company, wch allwayes is the first and Esteemed ye Greatest, and when there is a Lord Major of yt Company their pageant is a maiden queen on a throne Crowned and with Royal Robes and scepter and most richly dressed, wth Severall Ladyes dressed, her attendants, all on ye same pageant and wth a Cannopy over her head and drawn in an open Chariot wth 9 horses very finely accouter’d and pages that Ride them all, wth plumes of feathers. After being drawn through ye Citty she is jnvited by ye Lord major to a dinner provided on purpose for her, and soe many Rich Batchelors are appointed to Entertaine her that is a ranck among ye freemen. She has her traine bore up and is presented to Lady Majoris that salutes her as doth the aldermens Ladyes, all wch are Conducted in their Coaches to Guildhall. The new Lady Majoress Richly habitted has her traine borne up, and Introduced by one of the officers. The Sheriffs Ladyes Likewise weares gold Chaines that yeare, the Lady majoress does wear it ever after as doe all ye aldermens Ladyes whose husbands have been Lord majors, and as I said before ye Lord Majors must be aldermen and must have served as sheriffs before, and allwayes ye king Confers Knighthood on the person that is Chosen to be Sheriff unless he were a knight before.
In Guild Hall there are severall long tables plenty fully ffurnished wth all sorts of varietyes suiteable to the season, wth fine Desserts off sweetemeates, and jellys wch in Pyramidyes stand all ye tyme; the hott meate is brought in in first and second Courses. The Lord Major and Lady Majoress sitt at the upper End but in Case the Court is there then the Lord Major has one table, ye Lady another, and ye old Lady Majoress is set at ye Left hand of ye new Lady, and the aldermens Ladyes at her Right hand according to their senioritye, after which they Retire into a Gallery where is danceing the whole Evening.
All this yeare Lord or Lady Majoress goe no where but wth their officers to attend them, and ye old Lord Major and Lady Majoress has their traines bore up to Guild Hall and after dinner return without it. The whole affaires of ye Citty are managed by ye Lord Major and Court of aldermen and Common Councill men, he is obliged to take care of justice and Right, he does during his yeare jnvite Each Company wth all their Masters Wardens and officers twice—the Last tyme all their wives alsoe—the Sherriffs doe ye Like. Each person brings their Gift two, three Guinneas, some more and according to their Gift at ye Last Entertainment they have a silver spoon double Gilt, Either weighing soe many ounces and soe many as they Give Guinneas many tymes in the yeare: those yt would shew particular respect will go dine wth them and bring presents without haveing spoones.
All offices falling vacant in the Majoralty acruee to Lord Major to dispose off. There are 24 Companyes wch have each severall officers, as masters wardens &c., and doe meete to fix and maintaine their priviledges. They doe walke at ye Lord Majors day and make sumptuous feasts at Each hall appertaineing to their Compy wch is at ye Charge of ye masters and wardens wch are officers Chosen new Every yeare. They have great stocks and Lands belonging to their Companyes Common stock, and wch does maintaine schooles and Hospitalls and such Like wch from tyme to tyme are Encreased by severall Benefactors and Legacyes, some of wch are greate as in ye Mercers Company which have Lands to a great value for such Ends. There are severall feasts which Lord Major and Sherriffs are absolutely obliged to make at their first Entrance into their offices, two dayes following each other, and ye first day of ye terme to all ye judges, and 3 dayes at Easter going to hear a sermon at St Brides Each day, and then to jnspect ye severall Charityes and hospitalls yt all be kept in due order and provided for. Ye Lord Major and Sherriffs attends the King at all tymes to represent ye Publick affaires of ye Citty and receive his orders, they alsoe officiate at ye proclaiming any new King or Queen or to Declare peace or warr, wch is done in Greate solemnity by ye King at Arms and severall of ye nobillity in Coaches or on horseback, and ye officers of ye kings household.
King Williams return after ye peace was Concluded wth Ffrance and ye Confederates, the Kings Entry was in this manner, ye Lord Major in Crimson velvet Gown wth a Long traine on horseback attended by all his officers ye sword bearer and water Baily very well dress’d. Ye Common hunt was Clad in Green velvet, thus with all ye aldermen in their scarlet gowns they proceeding to receive ye King just at ye End of Southwark on ye borders of Kent, the Lord Major Carrying a scepter wth a Crown of pearle on ye top. Ye King was attended thus, ffirst of all his soldiers and officers marched in Ranke, ye aldermen and Lord Major and officers, then all ye nobillity in their Coaches, the Bishops and judges, then ye first Coach of ye King wth his household, then ye guards of his body, and then the Coach where in ye King was, wch was a very rich and Costly thing all ye fring Rich Gold, ye Glass very Large, the Standards and all outwork Like beaton Gold, drawn by 8 very fine white horses with Massy Gold harness and trappings, the Ffrench kings present to our king when the peace was concluded, ye first article of wch was owning King William king of England. After the kings Coach a troope of guards de Corps, then the third Coach of ye Kings wth his houshold, and other Coaches with Severall officers of the houshold; then as the king passed Southwarke the Baily presented him his mace, he returned it with ye usuall Ceremony and Grattification; then at ye bridge ye Lord Major demands his place and ye sword, wch is to March as Captn of ye Kings guards just Imediately before ye kings own Coach, wch accordingly was given him and he returns the said scepter to ye proper officers who bear yt and all ye Maces before him, and he bare headed beares ye sword on horseback just before the kings Coach. At ye same tyme ye water baily rides in the middle of ye guards as their officer and is on horseback, two men Like pages Leading it, soe is Lord Majors in this order: they proceeding through the Citty wch from ye Royal Exchange on Each side had placed the traine bands of the Citty with their officers, next them ye 24 companyes of ye Citty in their order and marks of their Honour and priviledges, wch reached to ye Conduite in Cheapside, all wch paid their respective Homage and duty to ye King who receiv’d it very kind and obligeingly, as he did ye Generall joy and acclamations wch proceeded from thousands which were spectators. At Pauls Schoole ye Schollars made him a speech and then he was Conducted to his own pallace at Whitehall. But before I leave the Citty of London I must describe its Building and treasure. Ye Government as I said was Lord Major, aldermen, sherriffs, Recorder, and Chamberlaine, and other officers as Common serjeant, and other sergeants, sword Bearers, water Bayly, Common Cryer, and ye town Clerke; all these with many other officers has Considerable salleryes and Endure their Life, Except ye Chamberlaine thats annually Chosen tho’ mostly is in the same person againe. Those others are in the Lord Majors dispose and brings a greate advantage to him if any dye in his Majoralty. There is alsoe many Considerable perquisitts belonging to him to support ye honnour. The Citty plaite is kept for Each, notwithstanding in ye year it Costs them more many tymes than they Receive, and in the whole I have had it from one yt had been at ye charge said it was above 8000£ in ye year.