Forge the shank as shown in the drawing while the drift pin is in. While forging keep driving the drift pin into the hole. When finished the hole should measure 3⁄4 in. at the large end and 1⁄2 in. at the small end. When the socket is finished cut the ends square and smooth up. During all the time the steel should never be worked below a red heat and most of the time at a high heat, below welding heat, until it is ready for finishing. Now the jaws are ready to be closed. This is done by placing a piece of flat iron, 3⁄4 in. thick and the width of the jaw, in between the opening, and close the jaws on this either with the hand hammer or a flatter. Drill a 1⁄2-in. hole in the middle of the end. This is made for the pin. Make a pin to fit this hole out of 1⁄2-in. round stock. Upset the end of the bar a little and place it in a heading tool, driving down and forming a head 1⁄8 in. thick and 3⁄4 in. in diameter. Take it out of the heading tool, cut the bolt off 1⁄2 in. longer than the width of the jaws. This allows for a 3⁄16-in. hole and pin. A small 3⁄16-in. hole is now drilled in the shank of the bolt and a split pin is put into the hole to prevent its falling out. The split pin is made by flattening down a piece of 1⁄8-in. wire in a small swage to a half round. Now double over to form an eye on one end of the two flat planes coming together. When this is put in through the hole, a chisel put in the opening will widen out the ends, thus preventing them from falling out.
HINGE AND BUTT
The hinge and butt are used on doors and gates. This fastening is made similar to the other hinges, except the eye is welded, instead of being a solid eye.
Stock: 1⁄4 × 1 × 71⁄2 ins. wrought iron.
Hinge
