Stock: Base, 5-in. disc of sheet steel or iron. Legs, 18 × 1 × 5 ins. (makes the 3). Spiral, 316-in. round wire, 40 ins.

Directions (base or pan): Divide the disc into sixteen equal parts. Flute these parts by cutting out a little hollow in a hard wood block and driving the flutes in by the use of a round cross peen hammer. Fluting reduces the diameter of the disc and forms it into a pan shape.

Legs: The three legs are in one piece. The 18 × 1 × 5 in. piece is split down half way; 1 in. from where the split ends the piece is fullered down. (See [sketch].) Draw out this end 38 in. wide. Draw out the split ends to this width, and all pieces to 18 in. thickness. This forms a tripod, the three legs at an equal distance apart. The ends of the feet are made very thin by flattening down. Turn these up as shown by the sketch and shape the three feet.

Spiral stem: This candle stem is 34 in. in diameter. If you wind up a piece of 316-in. wire on a 34-in. iron rod while the metal is cold you will have a spiral stem like the one shown here. To do this make a mandrel out of a 34-in. bar not less than 20 ins. in length. Drill a 14-in. hole in the end. Into this hole drive a 14-in. iron plug. Place this mandrel in the vise. Bend a small loop on the end of this wire to fit the 14-in. pin. Bend the wire and begin to wind around the bar. Make as many turns as are shown in the drawing. Take the wire off. The small loop end will stick out below the spiral and prevent it standing on a base level. This end must be driven back. To do this place it upon the other end of the rod, strike it with the hammer, and flatten it out so that the base will stand flat. Insert a sharp-pointed chisel between the coils; open them out so that the distance between them will be 14 in. Do this while the metal is cold. The handle may be made any design. It can be bent over, extended at right angles to the top, etc. Rivet the legs to the base with a 14-in. bolt. With a nut on the end rivet tightly to prevent the nut loosening up.

Socket to fit the spiral stem, for raising and lowering the candle: Stock: One piece of 18 × 1 × 3 in. One piece of 1 × 212 in. flat iron or soft steel, No. 20.

Directions: The No. 20 piece is bent around a 34-in. mandrel to give it a cylindrical shape. The two edges just come together. The handle of this socket is made by fullering down 18 × 1 × 3 ins., 1 in. back from the end, and drawing this out 316 in. round, 2 ins. long. The end is turned over as shown in the sketch; the other end is filed round to fit the inside of the socket cylinder. The two pieces are now brazed together. File the parts that come into contact with each other perfectly clean, and cover with borax. Heat it red hot and touch the parts to be brazed with the end of a piece of brass wire. At a certain temperature the brass wire will melt and fill up the spaces between the bottom and the cylinder. (See [Brazing].) This makes a tight joint: it is like soldering wrought iron together. This method of joining is used where welding would be impossible, as it would be in this case. File the base off smooth. The candle can now be slipped between the coils of wire. It should travel in its socket up and down the spiral. (See drawing.)

IRON AND STEEL HINGES

Ornamental hinges are used on doors, wall cabinets, chests, gates, etc., or wherever suitable. There are three methods of making hinges: (1) Solid eye, (2) welded, (3) turned or bent eye. (See article on Plain Hinges.)

Solid eye: The first drawing shows the solid eye split ornamental hinge.