Directions: Mark off on a thin sheet of metal the outline of the drawing. Cut the escutcheon plate same shape as the drawing (using cold chisel). File it up so that the edges are perfectly smooth. With a 1⁄8-in. drill, drill holes for the screws.
Knocker: Split the 51⁄2-in. piece of stock, leaving 1 in. square for the eye bolt and eye untouched. Round up the wings to 1⁄4 in. in diameter. Twist the two wings according to the design. Bring the two loose ends together and weld up 11⁄2 in. from the end. The same heat will enable you to draw and shape the loop. Spread out the parts between the weld and the twist, forming in this way the loop. Eye bolt: This is best made by working the end of a bar any length of the size stock given. The drawing shows a jaw-shaped holder to receive the eye of the knocker.
Punch a hole about 3⁄4 in. from the end of the bar about 1⁄4 in. in diameter. Cut out the piece between the hole and the end of the bar with a chisel. This forms the jaw. The small pin end is fullered down and drawn out the same as you did on the boss of the ring for the andiron, then it is riveted on to the escutcheon plate (see [drawing]) in place to receive the knocker. A 1⁄8-in. hole is drilled through this and through the eye of the knocker for the rivet to fasten the two together. The strike pin is made in the same way as the eye bolt, except that there is no jaw, just the plain piece of iron. The sketch shows a simple projection for the knocker to strike on.
Door knockers were used formerly in place of door bells, but to-day they are merely used for ornamental purposes.
DOOR PULLS
Door pulls are used as knockers, too. In general they take the place of door knobs, and are used in conjunction with a door plate. They are made of soft steel or iron.
Stock: Soft steel or wrought iron, 1⁄8 × 3 × 61⁄2 ins., made same way as the door knockers.
