Shaping base for stem
Stem: All copper tubing should be annealed before any work is done on it. After annealing, place the 3⁄8-in. rod through the hole of the tube and with the wooden mallet drive down on the tubing, beginning two inches from the end and using the hard wood block for an anvil. This constant driving and turning reduces the copper to any size required. We must make the end of this tubing fit the 3⁄8-in. rod. The tube must widen toward the other end, which is beaten out. Place it on the small end of the anvil stake. Drive with the raising hammer, turning it all the time. In this way you constantly increase the diameter, making the cup-shaped top like the design. Now the stem and base are ready for soldering. File the ends perfectly smooth and level. Bind in places and solder, as before. The filing, finishing, and polishing must be done as with other copper pieces.
Hat pin holders are usually filled with some soft material. The hat pins are pushed down into this, which helps to keep them in place. Some are covered on the top with a metal disc which has five or six holes bored through, a little larger than the bar of the hat pin. These holes are drilled into the disc and then the disc is soldered on to the top of the holder. The pins cannot fall out with such an arrangement, and they are not likely to gather on one side and tip the holder over.
IX
HOW TO RIVET
Riveting is one of the processes of joining two pieces of metal together without the use of solder. To rivet, you must first punch or bore holes into the metals along the edges to be joined. Place a rivet through these holes, and either with the hand hammer or rivet set, flatten down the projecting end of the rivet, forming a head similar to the head of the rivet itself. Be careful to have the rivet holes just large enough to let the rivet slip in and leave no extra space. If the holes are too large the rivet will bend instead of flattening.
Punching metal