My hearty thanks are due to many friends, notably, to Mr. Philip Clarkson, head chemist of H. A. Metz & Co., to Dr. Ludwig, of the Cassella Color Co., and to many other expert dyeing chemists, who have most kindly helped me with advice and information about many widely varying branches of the subject. Also to many of my craftsman friends, notably Mrs. C. L. Banks, of Bridgeport, Conn., and Mrs. Charlotte Busck, of this city, who have been of the greatest assistance in working out many of the problems involved in stencilling and Batik; and to Miss Mary Grey, of Hackettstown, N. J., who has kindly allowed me to insert an illustration of some of her interesting and well-designed tied work (Fig. [7]). It is my earnest hope that the information contained in this book may encourage and assist other craftsmen throughout the country to come up to the high standard of these skilled textile workers.
C. E. P.
Chapter I
INTRODUCTION
There has been so much said and written about the beauty and value of the old-fashioned dyestuffs and dyeing processes and their superiority to the modern coloring matters, that many well-meaning people of artistic tastes have never ceased to deplore the discovery and introduction of the so-called aniline or coal-tar dyes, and to regard them as a serious detriment to the art of dyeing.
Some, indeed, have gone so far as to decry the discoveries not only of the last fifty years, but also of the last nineteen or twenty centuries. These quote with approval the great John Ruskin, founder and original leader of the whole Arts and Crafts movement in England, if not in the world, as having said, “There has been nothing discovered of the slightest interest in the tinctorial art” (the art of dyeing) “since the days of the ancient Greeks and Romans.”
To suppose for an instant that this important and highly specialized art has not advanced during nearly two thousand years is, on the face of it, absurd. A very little knowledge of dyestuffs forces recognition of the fact that many of the very best, fastest, and most beautiful of the dyes of our ancestors—such as cochineal, with which they dyed practically all of their fast pinks and scarlets; logwood, with which silk as well as wool was, and is still dyed black; fustic, which was used for fast yellows on wool and cotton, and several others—were natives of America, and therefore only known to the world at large since the seventeenth century.
Indeed, as we shall see, the art of dyeing, based as it is on chemical processes, discovered one by one, but never properly explained or understood until the last sixty or seventy years, is, perhaps, the one art above all others in which not only the ancient world, but the world of comparatively a few years ago, was very distinctly inferior to that of the present day.
In drawing, sculpture, painting, architecture, ceramics, wood-carving, lacemaking, metal working, and almost every other art that can be mentioned, the craftsman of the Middle Ages, if not indeed of ancient Rome or Greece, could still hold his place against modern competitors. Even in such a modern art as book printing, the lover of books will claim, with considerable reason, that no more beautiful or more nearly perfect specimen of the printer’s art has ever been produced than the Gutenberg Bible, the first product of the European printing press.
The art of dyeing, however, has been changing and developing so much from century to century, that, even before the wonderful discoveries of the last fifty years, the effects produced by any one generation of dyers would have been totally impossible for their ancestors of a few generations before them.
It would seem hardly worth while to dwell further upon this subject, were not the idea so fixed in the minds of craftsmen in general that to get permanent and artistic effects in dyeing we must go back to the colors of our ancestors, if not to those of the ancient world. To this day we hear of new industries being started in the lines of hand-made tapestries, hand-woven linens, homespun cloths, and the like, where, as a great inducement to prospective purchasers, the goods are loudly proclaimed as dyed with “pure vegetable colors”; and the first question commonly asked about a pretty piece of dyed work is, “Are you sure that it is fast? Did you use the vegetable dyes?”