It is rare that, in our present surroundings, any craftsman can spare the time and patience to copy the elaborate patterns made in these ways by the Eastern dyers. But equally beautiful and interesting results can be produced with very little expenditure of time and labor, by the skilful dyer, who knows something of the fundamental principles of design and can use his dyes so as to get soft and beautiful as well as permanent color effects. It is impossible, in a work like this, to do more than suggest some of the many ways in which this process can be used. The rest depends entirely upon practice—and more can be learned about its possibilities in a couple of hours’ work with muslin or cheesecloth, and a ball of twine or tape, in connection with a dye-pot of a good Sulphur dye, than by weeks of listening or reading about it.
VARIETIES OF TIED WORK
Tied on Itself.—Interesting effects may often be produced on long pieces of cloth, scarfs, and the like, by folding them over and tying them into knots at one or two selected places, before dyeing. Fig. [6] shows an example of this, (a) Tied and ready for dyeing; (b) Dyed and opened out. This when worked out in different colors, dyeing first, with some light color, then tying and dyeing with another color, or else coloring the tied and dyed piece with a second light bath of another color, gives very pleasant results as applied to draperies—as, for instance, simple costumes for pageants and out-of-doors plays. It is, however, almost, if not quite, impossible to obtain definite designs in this way, and it is hardly possible to duplicate results. But occasionally the process is useful.
Tied with String or Tape.—Far more important is the process generally meant by the term “tied and dyed work,” where the pattern is made by tying either thread, string, cord, or even tape, more or less tightly around special portions of the cloth. These portions are usually drawn out, or pressed out, or folded, so as to form a sort of loop around which the string can be tied. But occasionally the whole cloth, laid flat and with but little folding, is tied tightly across, so that the reserved part forms, when untied, a more or less straight band.
Tied in Bands.—It is often desirable to separate one part of a design from another by means of a broad line or band of white or light color. This can be readily done by tying a piece of strong twine or tape, tightly, right across the goods at the desired place before dyeing it. Quite elaborate and interesting effects can be produced in this way by first folding the cloth lengthways, and then tying a width of several inches with a broad piece of tape. If it is not tied too tight some of the color will work up and down the folds, under the tape, and give, when finished, curious wavy effects. (See Fig. [7].)
Tied in Small Loops.—This banding, though interesting and useful, differs from the sharp little round or diamond-shaped rings forming the patterns in the Rajput or Bagobo textiles. These are produced by pressing or pulling out the cloth into loops or bunches which are then tied tightly round and round with string or thread, the middle of the loop being usually left exposed to the dyestuff, so as to form a colored centre.
(a)—Tied and Ready for Dyeing
(b)—Dyed, Untied and Shaken Out
FIG. 6—SAMPLE OF TIED AND DYED WORK, “TIED ON ITSELF”