Accompanying the practice in turning there should be some exercise in the shaping and filing of tools. Broad tools filed to the proper curve are indispensable in finishing concave surfaces. A curved edge may also be put upon one or two narrow tools. These will cut more rapidly than the broader ones but will not leave as smooth a finish. Whatever tool be used the final surface must be worked over with a soft sponge and water so as to eliminate the tool marks and leave a plastic surface. One of the principal troubles with which the beginner will meet is the vibration of the tool known as "chattering." This is sometimes so slight as not to be felt by the hand but when the motion of the wheel is stopped the work will be found covered with fine ridges like gathering on muslin. The way to prevent this is to avoid using the broad edge of the tool until some experience has been gained. The way to cure it is to go over the work again with a fine pointed tool and then to use the sponge liberally. The point of the tool cuts through the small ribs or wrinkles whereas a broad tool would ride over them and make the trouble worse.
While the whole surface of the work will probably need more or less turning, the chief part of the operation is concerned with the under part or foot. The formation of a good foot marks a good potter and vice versa. Before beginning to turn it should be decided what kind of a foot is desired. Each shape has its own style. Some sketches are given here with an idea of the form to which each is adapted. They are shown upside down because the work is done in this position. The small bevel at the outer angle is used for facility in glazing. A foot finished thus always has a neat appearance when the glaze has been removed from the beveled face.
CHAPTER XI
Making Large Pieces
There is a limit in size beyond which the non-professional will not be able to go. Men of life-long experience can throw very large jars but this involves not only more practice than the artist-potter can hope to secure but also great physical strength. On the other hand it is perfectly possible to form vases two or three feet in height by doing the work in parts or sections. No one need fear to put such a plan in operation on account of sentiment. It is, of course, worth while to make large wares in a single piece but section work involves great skill and, as a rule, the result attained is better. Work made in one piece is apt to be badly finished, especially inside, and unduly heavy. Work made in sections can be thrown with thin walls and finished with proper care. If tradition be of any help, be it known that the Chinese have used the piece method for hundreds of years, and that the Greeks used it three thousand years ago.
The first requisite is a drawing either actual size or properly scaled. The measurements should be those of the soft clay and if a particular size be desired in the burned piece, the shrinkage, probably about one-eighth, must be added. The drawing must show the size of each section with the points of junction, and should indicate the upper and lower edges in each case. Some divisions are best made right side up; some are more easily thrown upside down. Care should be taken that the faces which are to be joined are thrown under similar conditions. In every piece of work one face rests on the bat, the other is in the air or free. A bat face should always be joined to a bat face and a free face to a free.
Suppose, for instance, a vase is to be sixteen inches high and is to be thrown in four divisions of four inches each. The bottom division is made first. This will stand in its normal position, right side up. The second section must now be thrown upside down, because, if it were not, its bat face would be joined to the free face of the first piece. So the sections are thrown alternately, every other one being inverted.
PLATE XIV. Making Large Pieces. The First Section.
As the pieces are thrown they must be carefully measured to see that the faces which are to be united are the same size. The height of each piece also must be gauged and adjusted. The bats with their contents are now set aside to harden. As soon as they can be handled with safety the clay pieces should be removed from the bats upon which the throwing was done and set upon dry bats which will absorb the moisture and help to stiffen the clay. It is a good plan to pile the sections up as they are to stand in the finished piece, one upon another and to leave them so in a cool place for ten or twelve hours. The faces which are to be joined will thus acquire a uniform hardness and unequal shrinkage will be avoided.