To produce enamel decorations at their true value the color should be painted upon the dry glaze before it is burned. The best relation between surface and color is thus secured. The color must be worked quite thin with water and a little glycerine. A quick, sure stroke is needed as no change or erasure is possible. The design may be made on paper and traced or pounced on to the glaze with lamp-black.
For burning the tile there is nothing better than little fire-clay boxes. These can be made in a mold without difficulty and the inside of each should be washed with glaze. If some such protection be not provided dirt is almost sure to fall on the flat surface and the tile will be spoiled. It is not possible to rear them on edge in the kiln for burning as then the glaze would flow to the lower side and cause an unsightly ridge.
CHAPTER XV
Glazes and Glazing
PART I
Much of the fascination of pottery making centers in the glaze. At one time a great deal of mystery appeared to surround the composition and use of glazes, but if one will take the trouble to learn, much of this may be dispelled. Some knowledge of chemistry is desirable if an understanding of the theory of glaze-making is to be acquired, but a good deal may be learned even without this knowledge. Only such simple instruction as can be assimilated by ordinary intelligence will be attempted here, as an exhaustive treatment of the subject would be long and tedious.
It is possible to purchase glazes ready for use[J] but the true craftsman will not be satisfied until he can prepare his own.
Glazes[K] belong to a class of chemical compounds known as silicates; that is, they have silica as the characteristic ingredient. Clear glazes are compound silicates of lead, zinc, lime, potassium, sodium, aluminum and boron. Matt glazes are characterized by certain of these ingredients being present in excess; and stanniferous or tin glazes are, as the name implies, rendered opaque by the use of oxide of tin.