The stock requirements for carrying out this design are as follows: 2 back posts, 11⁄4 inch × 11⁄4 inch × 24 inches; 2 front posts, 11⁄4 inch × 11⁄4 × 18 inches; 2 centre uprights, 5⁄8 × 1 × 18 inches; 1 back rail, 5⁄8 × 11⁄4 × 37 inches; 1 end rail, 1 × 11⁄4 × 44 inches; and 2 shelves, 7⁄8 × 7 by 37 inches.
Construction details and dimensions for hanging book rack (front)
The tools needed are much like those required in the previous problem—i. e., the same planes, saws, bitstock, squares, and the gauge; but there will be needed a 3⁄8-inch bit, 3⁄8-inch and 3⁄4-inch chisels, a knife rule, a rabbet plane, a mitre box, and a mallet.
Construction details and dimensions for hanging book rack (end)
Construction.—The details of construction required are as follows: Dressing the stock pieces, cutting the posts to length, cutting the points on the posts, rabbeting the cross rails and cutting them to length, cutting the mortise and tenons, halving on the end rails, cutting and fitting the shelves, cutting, fitting, and fastening the back rail, arranging the clamps and other appliances for gluing up, and cleaning off the glue after hardening.
How the tenon is applied to the rail
The stock pieces should be first "dressed" down to the drawing dimensions. This means that they should be planed and sand-papered preparatory to laying out the cutting dimensions. The front and back posts should be cut to length in the mitre box, care being taken to allow an extra 1⁄2 inch for the pointed ends at the top and bottom. These pointed ends are cut in the mitre box by raising one end of the post and sawing to lines squared around the post 1⁄4 inch from the other end. The angle of the cut is made uniform by resting the raised end of the post on a block lightly nailed on the inside of the mitre box, thus giving the same elevation for all the posts. The 1-inch by 11⁄4-inch piece for rails is rabbeted out, using the plane designed for that purpose, and afterward cut to length as called for. The blind mortises should be made not more than 7⁄8 of an inch deep, and the tenons 1⁄16 of an inch shorter in order not to strike the bottom of the mortise. One of these rails should be accurately laid out with knife lines and the rest marked from this as a pattern. The drawing shows the location of the tenon with reference to the part of the rail on which the shelf rests. This is the most convenient position for cutting the tenon and it also gives greater strength. The centre uprights should be halved on after the end rails are in position, being cut for this purpose as illustrated in the drawing. They may be allowed to stand out 1⁄8 of an inch beyond the face of the end rail, and in making the joint an equal amount of stock is to be taken from the rail and from the upright. The shelves are then easily cut to length and the ends fitted with the block plane and dropped into place, being lightly glued and nailed with brads from the under side of the rabbet. Finally the top back rail should be halved in, being left to the last in order that the more important fitting of the shelves may be more easily accomplished.