| PAGE | |
| Vignette: Eel-Spearing | [Title-page] |
| Preface | [vii] |
| List of Illustrations: Taking Toll | [xi] |
| The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road | [1] |
| The Green Dragon, Bishopsgate Street, 1856 From a Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd. | [8] |
| The Four Swans, Bishopsgate Street, 1855 From a Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd. | [9] |
| Tottenham Cross | [38] |
| Balthazar Sanchez' Almshouses, Tottenham | [41] |
| Waltham Cross a hundred years ago | [59] |
| The Roman Urn, Cheshunt | [76] |
| Charles the First's Rocking-Horse | [79] |
| Clarkson's Monument | [99] |
| A Monumental Milestone | [111] |
| The Chequers, Fowlmere | [115] |
| West Mill | [118] |
| A Quaint Corner in Royston | [125] |
| Caxton Gibbet | [127] |
| The First Milestone from Cambridge | [139] |
| Hobson's Conduit | [141] |
| Hobson From a Painting in Cambridge Guildhall. | [162] |
| Market Hill, Cambridge | [167] |
| The Falcon, Cambridge | [168] |
| Interior of St. Sepulchre's Church | [169] |
| Cambridge Castle a hundred years ago | [171] |
| Landbeach | [181] |
| The Fens After Dugdale. | [191] |
| The Isle of Ely and district | [215] |
| Aldreth Causeway and the Isle of Ely | [218] |
| Upware Inn | [237] |
| Wicken Fen | [241] |
| Hodden Spade and Becket | [248] |
| Stretham | [254] |
| The West Front, Ely Cathedral | [265] |
| Ely Cathedral, from the Littleport Road | [289] |
| Littleport | [291] |
| The River Road, Littleport | [293] |
| The Ouse | [295] |
| Southery Ferry | [296] |
| Kett's Oak | [300] |
| Denver Hall | [301] |
| The Crown, Downham Market | [302] |
| The Castle, Downham Market | [303] |
| Hogge's Bridge, Stow Bardolph | [305] |
| The Lynn Arms, Setchey | [306] |
| The South Gates, Lynn | [308] |
| The Guildhall, Lynn | [314] |
| The Duke's Head, Lynn | [321] |
| Islington | [329] |
THE ROAD TO CAMBRIDGE, ELY,
AND KING'S LYNN
The Cambridge Ely and King's Lynn Road
I
"Sister Anne, Sister Anne, do you see anyone coming?" asks Fatima in the story of Bluebeard. Clio, the Muse of History, shall be my Sister Anne. I hereby set her down in the beginnings of the Cambridge Road, bid her be retrospective, and ask her what she sees.
"I see," she says dreamily, like some medium or clairvoyant,—"I see a forest track leading from the marshy valley of the Thames to the still more marshy valley of the Lea. The tribes who inhabit the land are at once fierce and warlike, and greedy for trading with merchants from over the narrow channel that separates Britain from Gaul. They are fair-haired and blue-eyed, they are dressed in the skins of wild animals, and their chieftains wear many ornaments of red gold." Then she is silent, for Clio, like her eight sisters, is a very ancient personage, and like the aged, although she knows much, cannot recall sights and scenes without a deal of mental fumbling.