PAGE
Vignette: Eel-Spearing[Title-page]
Preface[vii]
List of Illustrations: Taking Toll[xi]
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road[1]
The Green Dragon, Bishopsgate Street, 1856
From a Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd.
[8]
The Four Swans, Bishopsgate Street, 1855
From a Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd.
[9]
Tottenham Cross[38]
Balthazar Sanchez' Almshouses, Tottenham [41]
Waltham Cross a hundred years ago [59]
The Roman Urn, Cheshunt[76]
Charles the First's Rocking-Horse [79]
Clarkson's Monument[99]
A Monumental Milestone[111]
The Chequers, Fowlmere[115]
West Mill[118]
A Quaint Corner in Royston[125]
Caxton Gibbet[127]
The First Milestone from Cambridge[139]
Hobson's Conduit[141]
Hobson
From a Painting in Cambridge Guildhall.
[162]
Market Hill, Cambridge[167]
The Falcon, Cambridge[168]
Interior of St. Sepulchre's Church[169]
Cambridge Castle a hundred years ago[171]
Landbeach[181]
The Fens
After Dugdale.
[191]
The Isle of Ely and district[215]
Aldreth Causeway and the Isle of Ely[218]
Upware Inn[237]
Wicken Fen[241]
Hodden Spade and Becket[248]
Stretham[254]
The West Front, Ely Cathedral[265]
Ely Cathedral, from the Littleport Road[289]
Littleport[291]
The River Road, Littleport[293]
The Ouse[295]
Southery Ferry[296]
Kett's Oak[300]
Denver Hall[301]
The Crown, Downham Market[302]
The Castle, Downham Market[303]
Hogge's Bridge, Stow Bardolph[305]
The Lynn Arms, Setchey[306]
The South Gates, Lynn[308]
The Guildhall, Lynn[314]
The Duke's Head, Lynn[321]
Islington[329]

THE ROAD TO CAMBRIDGE, ELY,
AND KING'S LYNN

London (Shoreditch Church) to— MILES
Kingsland1½
Stoke Newington2½
Stamford Hill3¼
Tottenham High Cross4¼
Tottenham5¼
Upper Edmonton6
Lower Edmonton6¾
Ponder's End8½
Enfield Highway9¼
Enfield Wash10
Waltham Cross11½
Crossbrook Street12
Turner's Hill13
Cheshunt13¼
Cheshunt Wash13¾
Turnford14
Wormley (cross New River)14¾
Broxbourne15¾
Hoddesdon17
Great Amwell (cross New River and the Lea)19¼
Ware21
Wade's Mill (cross River Rib)23
High Cross23½
Collier's End25
Puckeridge (cross River Rib)26¾
Braughing27¾
Quinbury28¾
Hare Street30¾
Barkway35
Barley36¾
Fowlmere42
Newton44¼
Hauxton (cross River Granta)47¾
Trumpington48½
Cambridge (Market Hill)50¾
To Cambridge, through Royston—
Puckeridge (cross River Rib)26¾
West Mill29¾
Buntingford31
Chipping32½
Buckland33¾
Royston37¾
Melbourn41¼
Shepreth43¼
Foxton Station and Level Crossing44
Harston45½
Hauxton (cross River Granta)46½
Trumpington48¾
Cambridge (Market Hill)51
Milton54
Landbeach54¾
Denny Abbey58
Chittering58¾
Stretham Bridge (cross Great Ouse River)61¾
Stretham63¼
Thetford Level Crossing64½
Ely67½
Chettisham Station and Level Crossing69½
Littleport72½
Littleport Bridge (cross Great Ouse River)73½
Brandon Creek (cross Little Ouse River)76¾
Southery78¾
Modney Bridge (cross Sams Cut Drain)80¼
Hilgay (cross Wissey River)81¾
Fordham82¾
Denver84
Downham Market85¼
Wimbotsham86½
Stow Bardolph87¼
South Runcton (cross River Nar)89¼
Setchey92¼
West Winch93¾
Hardwick Bridge95¼
King's Lynn97¼

The Cambridge Ely and King's Lynn Road

I

"Sister Anne, Sister Anne, do you see anyone coming?" asks Fatima in the story of Bluebeard. Clio, the Muse of History, shall be my Sister Anne. I hereby set her down in the beginnings of the Cambridge Road, bid her be retrospective, and ask her what she sees.

"I see," she says dreamily, like some medium or clairvoyant,—"I see a forest track leading from the marshy valley of the Thames to the still more marshy valley of the Lea. The tribes who inhabit the land are at once fierce and warlike, and greedy for trading with merchants from over the narrow channel that separates Britain from Gaul. They are fair-haired and blue-eyed, they are dressed in the skins of wild animals, and their chieftains wear many ornaments of red gold." Then she is silent, for Clio, like her eight sisters, is a very ancient personage, and like the aged, although she knows much, cannot recall sights and scenes without a deal of mental fumbling.