Caen Wood still stands hard by the “Spaniards,” which you must pass in order to come to it from London. Here the landlord stood, with the tollbar behind him, like another Horatius in the gate, and met the rioters as they came with pikes and “No Popery” flags, and torches and firelocks, streaming along the road. They were an unsuspicious mob, and a thirsty, and when mine host invited them to partake of his best, free of charge, and even to wallow in it, if they would, they did not stop to ask the motive of such extraordinary generosity, but took him at his word and sat boozing there until the detachment of Horse Guards, sent up in response to the mounted messenger despatched by the landlord, had time to dispose themselves in the Caen Wood grounds, and so to overawe their undisciplined force.
A very great deal of the “Spaniards’” picturesqueness is due to the rustic setting of narrow lane and tall elms that frames it in, but that story of the resourceful landlord and his artful way with those London furies gives the house and the scenery a final dramatic touch. You fancy, if you stroll that way some June evening, that you see him, in old-fashioned dress—buckled shoes, worsted stockings, knee-breeches, scrubby wig—standing in the roadway, tankard in one hand, churchwarden pipe in the other, with assumed joviality confronting a rabble in equal parts drunk and mad. You see the banner, “No Popery!” you hear the curses and—without the aid of imagination, for the “Spaniards” is a going concern—smell the drink. And presently you hear the gallop of the Horse Guards and the rattle and jingle of their accoutrements.
But you must not by any means come here on Easter Monday or any other occasion of popular holiday, for amidst such wholesale merry-making imagination becomes atrophied, and the ghosts of historic drama will not condescend to share the stage with twentieth-century comedy.
Printed and bound by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury.
INDEX
Adelphi Hotel, Adelphi, i. [212], [264]
Ale-stakes, i. [14-17]
Anchor, Ripley, ii. 212, 242
Angel, Basingstoke, ii. 279
— Bury St. Edmunds, i. [238]
— Colchester, i. [90]
— Ferrybridge, ii. 81
— Grantham, i. [118-123]
— Guildford, ii. 57
— Islington, i. [119]
— Stilton, ii. 48
Ass-in-the-Bandbox, Nidd, ii. 203
Barge Aground, Brentford, ii. 203
— Stratford High Road, ii. 203
Battle, Pilgrims’ Hostel at, i. [97]
Bay Tree Tavern, St. Swithin’s Lane, ii. 290
Bear, Devizes, ii. 8-16
— Esher, ii. 116
— and Billet, Chester, ii. 74
Bear’s Head, Brereton, ii. 62
Beaufort Arms, Bath, i. [254]
Beckhampton Inn, i. [238]
Bee-Hive, Eaumont Bridge, ii. 138
— Grantham, ii. 192
Beetle-and-Wedge, Moulsford, ii. 195
Bell, Barnby Moor, i. [60], ii. 55, 81
— Belbroughton, ii. 245
— Berkeley Heath, i. [256]
— Dale Abbey, ii. 88, 90
— Stilton, ii. 48-54
— Tewkesbury, ii. 283-287
— Warwick Lane, London, i. [30]
— Woodbridge, ii. 112
Bell and Mackerel, Mile End, ii. 129
Belle Sauvage, Ludgate Hill, i. [229]
Berkeley Arms, Tewkesbury, ii. 288
Birch Tree Tavern, St. Swithin’s Lane, ii. 290
Black Bear, Sandbach, ii. 58
— — Tewkesbury, ii. 289
— Boy, Chelmsford, i. [242]
— Bull, Holborn, i. [288-290]
— — Newcastle-on-Tyne, i. [53]
— Horse, Cherhill, i. [232]
— Jack, Clare Market, i. [242-244]
— Swan, Kirkby Moorside, ii. 267
Blue Bell, Barnby Moor, i. [60], ii. 55, 81
— Boar, Leicester, i. [202]
— — Whitechapel, i. [291]
— Dragon, near Salisbury, i. [282-288]
— Lion, Muggleton, i.e. Town Malling, i. [226]
— Posts, Chester, i. [155-158]
— — Portsmouth, ii. 137
Boar, Bluepitts, near Rochdale, ii. 197
Boar’s Head, Eastcheap, ii. 253, 261
— Middleton, ii. 218
Boot, Chester, ii. 78
Bottom Inn, Chalton Downs, near Petersfield, i. [270-274]
Buck and Bell, Long Itchington, ii. 130
Bull, Dartford, i. [79-82]
— Fenny Stratford, ii. 111
— Rochester, i. [221-223]
— Sissinghurst, ii. 244
— Whitechapel, i. [242], [245]
Bull and Mouth, St. Martin’s-le-Grand, i. [228]
Bull’s Head, Meriden, ii. 80
— Greengate, Salford, i. [7]
Burford Bridge Hotel, near Dorking, ii. 273
Bush, Bristol, i. [255]
— Farnham, i. [309]
Capel Curig Inn, ii. 254
Carnarvon Castle, Chester, ii. 77
— Arms, Guildford Street, ii. 289
Cart Overthrown, Edmonton, ii. 203
Castle, Conway, ii. 122
— Marlborough, i. [60], ii. 8, 90-99
Cat and Fiddle, near Buxton, ii. 147
— near Christchurch, ii. 181
Cat and Mutton, London Fields, ii. 139
Cats, Sevenoaks, ii. 191
Chapel House, near Chipping Norton, ii. 100-106
Cheney Gate, near Congleton, ii. 139
Chequers, Slapestones, ii. 134
— of the Hope, Canterbury, i. [85]
Civil Usage, Brixham, ii. 203
Clayton Arms, Godstone, ii. 30-34
Coach and Dogs, Oswestry, ii. 200
Coach and Horses, Chalton Downs, near Petersfield, i. [270]
Coach and Horses, Isleworth, i. [276]
Cock, Eaton Socon, i. [267]
— Great Budworth, ii. 69-71
— Stony Stratford, ii. 43, 47
Cock and Pymat, Whittington, near Chesterfield, i. [181-184]
County Inn, Canterbury, i. [291]
Craven Arms, near Church Stretton, ii. 47
Cricketers, Laleham, ii. 167
Crispin and Crispianus, Strood, i. [292-295]
Cross Hands, near Chipping Sodbury, ii. 85
Cross Keys, Wood Street, Cheapside, i. [295]
Crow-on-Gate, Crowborough, ii. 205
Crown, Chiddingfold, ii. 242
— Hempstead, i. [310]
— Oxford, ii. 101
— Rochester, i. [223-225]
— Stamford, ii. 158
Crown and Treaty, Uxbridge, i. [161-169]
Custom House, Chester, ii. 77
Dale Abbey, ii. 88-90
Dedlock Arms, i. [290]
De Quincey, T., on old inns, i. [57], ii. 274-279
Dial House, Bocking, ii. 226
Dick Whittington, Cloth Fair, i. [4]
Dolphin, Potter Heigham, i. [159]
Domus Dei, Southampton, i. [90]
Dorset Arms, East Grinstead, ii. 35
Duchy Hotel, Princetown, ii. 149
Eagle and Child, Nether Alderley, ii. 209
Edinburgh Castle, Limehouse, ii. 106-108
— Regent’s Park, ii. 126-128
Eight Bells, Twickenham, ii. 200
Epitaphs on Innkeepers, ii. 245-254
Falcon, Bidford, ii. 89
— Chester, ii. 74
Falstaff, Canterbury, i. [87]
Feathers, Ludlow, ii. 18-25
Ferry inn, Rosneath, ii. 180
Fighting Cocks, St. Albans, i. [4]
First and Last, Land’s End, ii. 206
— Sennen, ii. 206
Fish and Eels, Roydon, i. [118]
Flitch of Bacon, Wichnor, ii. 79
Fountain, Canterbury, i. [291]
Four Crosses, Hatherton, ii. 134
Fowler, J. Kearsley, of the White Hart, Aylesbury, i. [62]
Fox and Hounds, Barley, ii. 153
Fox and Pelican, Grayshott, ii. 180
Fox-under-the-Hill, Strand, i. [255]
Garter, Windsor, ii. 261
Gate, Dunkirk, ii. 133
Gate Hangs Well, Nottingham, ii. 133
Gatehouse Tavern, Norwich, ii. 130
George, Amesbury, i. [283-287]
— Andover, ii. 16-18
— Bridport, i. [180]
— Brighthelmstone, i. [181]
— Broadwindsor, i. [180]
— Colnbrook, i. [188]
— Crawley, ii. 152
— Grantham, i. [267], ii. 55
— Glastonbury, i. [107], [116]
— Greta Bridge, i. [268]
— Hayes Common, ii. 172
— Huntingdon, ii. 47
— Mere, i. [180]
— Norton St. Philip, i. [123-132]
— Odiham, ii. 44
— Rochester, i. [82]
— St. Albans, i. [117], [119]
— Salisbury, ii. 263
— Southwark, i. [31]
— Stamford, ii. 154-158
— Walsall, i. [60]
— Wanstead, ii. 141
— Winchcombe, i. [132-136]
George and Dragon, Dragon’s Green, ii. 117-119
— Great Budworth, ii. 137
— Wargrave-on-Thames, ii. 176
— West Wycombe, ii. 222
George and Vulture, Lombard Street, i. [213], [251], [264]
George the Fourth, Clare Market, i. [242-244]
God’s House, Portsmouth, i. [89]
Golden Cross, Charing Cross, i. [213-220], ii. 72, 268
Grand Pump Room Hotel, Bath, i. [254]
Great Western Railway Hotel, Paddington, i. [72]
Great White Horse, Ipswich, i. [246-251]
Green Dragon, Alderbury, i. [282-288]
— Combe St. Nicholas, ii. 109
— Welton, i. [312]
— Wymondham, i. [95]
Green Man, Hatton, i. [317]
— Putney Heath, i. [319]
Green Man and Black’s Head, Ashbourne, ii. 159
Grenadier, Whitley, ii. 138
Greyhound, Croydon, ii. 153
— Sutton, ii. 153
— Thame, i. [160]
Guildford Arms, Guildford Street, ii. 290
Halfway House, Rickmansworth, ii. 215
Hark to Bounty, Staidburn, ii. 204
— Lasher, Castleton, ii. 204
— Nudger, Dobcross, Manchester, ii. 204
— Towler, Bury, Lancashire, ii. 204
Haycock, Wansford, ii. 80
Haygate Inn, near Wellington, Salop, ii. 80
Hearts of Oak, West Allington, ii. 87
Herbergers, i. [25]
Hop-pole, Tewkesbury, i. [257], ii. 288
Horseshoe and Castle, Cooling, i. [295]
Hostelers, i. [25]
Hundred-and-One, The, ii. 129
Innkeepers, Epitaphs on, ii. 245-254
Isle of Skye, near Holmfirth, ii. 148
Jack Straw’s Castle, Hampstead Heath, i. [300-302]
Johnson Dr., on inns, i. [43-46]
Jolly Farmer, Farnham, ii. 217
Keigwin Arms, Mousehole, ii. 230
King and Tinker, Enfield, i. [205-207]
King Edgar, Chester, ii. 72-74
King’s Arms, Lancaster, i. [299]
— Malmesbury, ii. 293
— Salisbury, i. [180]
— Sandwich, ii. 228
King’s Head, Aylesbury, i. [141-143], ii. 38
— Chigwell, i. [277-283]
— Dorking, i. [230]
— Stockbridge, ii. 249
— Thame, i. [160]
— Yarmouth, i. [207], ii. 114
Labour in Vain, Stourbridge, ii. 199
Lamb, Eastbourne, ii. 57
Lawrence, Robert, of the “Lion,” Shrewsbury, i. [60], ii. 250
Leather Bottle, Cobham, Kent, i. [230]
— Holborn, ii. 191
Leighton, Archbishop, i. [29]
Lion, Shrewsbury, i. [60], [297], ii. 250, 274-279
Lion and Fiddle, Hilperton, ii. 195
Lion and Swan, Congleton, ii. 65-67
Living Sign, Grantham, ii. 192
Load of Mischief, Oxford Street, ii. 162
Locker-Lampson, F., on old inns, i. [58]
Loggerheads, Llanverris, ii. 168
Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland, i. [136-140]
Lord Warden, Dover, i. [54]
Luttrell Arms, Dunster, ii. 37-40
Lygon Arms, Broadway, ii. 2-8, 244
Magpie, Little Stonham, ii. 153
— and Stump, Clare Market, i. [242]
Maiden’s Head, Uckfield, ii. 37
Maid’s Head, Norwich, ii. 40-42
Maison Dieu, Dover, i. [88]
— Ospringe, i. [84]
Malt Shovel, Sandwich, ii. 228
Man Loaded with Mischief, Oxford Street, ii. 162
Marlborough Downs, i. [231-238]
Marquis of Ailesbury’s Arms, Manton, i. [232]
— Granby, Dorking, i. [230]
Maund and Bush, near Shifnal, ii. 199
Maypole, Chigwell, i. [277-282]
Miller of Mansfield, Goring-on-Thames, ii. 177
Molly Mog, ii. 271
Mompesson, Sir Giles, i. [37-41]
Mortal Man, Troutbeck, ii. 169
Morison, Fynes, on English inns, i. [36]
Music House, Norwich, i. [157]
Nag’s Head, Thame, i. [160]
Neptune, Ipswich, ii. 110
Newhaven Inn, near Buxton, ii. 255
New Inn, Allerton, ii. 80
— Gloucester, i. [98-106]
— Greta Bridge, i. [268]
— New Romney, ii. 44
— Sherborne, i. [106]
Newby Head, near Hawes, ii. 149
Noah’s Ark, Compton, i. [90]
Nutley Inn, ii. 36
Old Angel, Basingstoke, ii. 279
— Bell, Holborn, i. [30]
— — Chester, ii. 78
— Black Jack, Clare Market, i. [242-244]
— Fox, Bricket Wood, ii. 201
— Hall, Sandbach, ii. 58-62
— House at Home, Havant, ii. 220
— King’s Head, Aylesbury, i. [141-143], ii. 38
— — Chester, ii. 77
— Leather Bottle, Cobham, Kent, i. [230]
— Magpies, Sipson Green, i. [317]
— Rock House, Barton, ii. 196
— Rover’s Return, Manchester, i. [7]
— Royal Hotel, Birmingham, i. [258], ii. 268
— Ship, Worksop, ii. 226
— Star, York, ii. 158
— Swan, Atherstone, ii. 227
— Tippling Philosopher, Chepstow, ii. 203
— White Swan, Piff’s Elm, i. [202-205]
Osborne’s Hotel, Adelphi, i. [212], [264]
Ostrich, Colnbrook, i. [188-201]
Pack Horse and Talbot, Turnham Green, ii. 192
Peacock, Eatanswill, i. [230]
— Rowsley, ii. 25-29
Pelican, Speenhamland, i. [208], ii. 293
Penygwryd Hotel, Llanberis, ii. 294-298
Pheasant, Winterslow Hut, ii. 102
Pickering Arms, Thelwall, ii. 71
Pie, Little Stonham, ii. 153
Pied Bull, Chester, ii. 78
Piers Plowman, i. [16-18]
Piff’s Elm, i. [202-205]
Pilgrims’ Hostel, Battle, i. [97]
— Compton, i. [90]
Plough, Blundeston, i. [290]
— Ford, ii. 136
Pomfret Arms, Towcester, i. [259-263]
Pounds Bridge, near Penshurst, ii. 220
Queen’s Arms, Charmouth, i. [180]
— Head, Hesket Newmarket, i. [299]
— Hotel, St. Martin’s-le-Grand, i. [229]
— Burton-on-Trent, ii. 114
Raven, Hook, ii. 86
— Shrewsbury, i. [42], [60]
Red Bull, Stamford, ii. 158
Red Horse, Stratford-on-Avon, ii. 47, 269-271
Red Lion, Banbury, i. [146]
— Canterbury, i. [51]
— Chiswick Mall, ii. 123-125
— Egham, ii. 53-56
— Glastonbury, i. [116]
— Great Missenden, ii. 198
— Guildford, ii. 262
— Hampton-on-Thames, ii. 159
— Hatfield, ii. 55
— Henley-on-Thames, ii. 299-301
— High Wycombe, i. [184]
— Hillingdon, i. [169]
— Martlesham, ii. 113, 165
— Ospringe, i. [84]
— Parliament Street, i. [265], [290]
Reindeer, Banbury, i. [145], [147-155], [169]
Ridler’s Hotel, Holborn, i. [31]
Robin Hood, Turnham Green, ii. 131
— Cherry Hinton, ii. 131
Rose, Wokingham, ii. 271
Rose and Crown, Halifax, ii. 273
— Rickmansworth, ii. 215
Rover’s Return, Shudehill, Manchester, i. [7]
Row Barge, Wallingford, ii. 178
Royal County Hotel, Durham, ii. 55
Royal George, Knutsford, ii. 279
— Stroud, ii. 82
Royal Hotel, Bath, i. [255]
— Bideford, ii. 273
Royal Oak, Bettws-y-Coed, ii. 172-175
Rummyng, Elynor, i. [19-24]
Running Footman, Hay Hill, i. [255], ii. 193
Running Horse, Leatherhead, i. [18-25]
— Merrow, ii. 233
Salutation, Ambleside, ii. 292
Saracen’s Head, Bath, i. 266
— Southwell, i. [172-180]
— Towcester, i. [259-263]
Serjeant’s Inn Coffee House, i. [255]
Seven Stars, Manchester, i. [6], [8-12]
Shakespeare’s Head, near Chipping Norton, ii. 100-106
Shears, Wantage, ii. 202
Shepherd’s Shore, Marlborough Downs, i. [232-237]
Ship and Lobster, Denton, near Gravesend, i. [296]
— Afloat, Bridgwater, ii. 203
— Aground, ii. 203
Ship, Brixham, ii. 139
— Dover, i. [54]
Smiling Man, Dudley, ii. 203
Smoker, Plumbley, ii. 179
Soldier’s Fortune, Kidderminster, ii. 136
Sondes Arms, Rockingham, i. [290]
Spaniards, Hampstead Heath, i. [256], [320-327]
Star, Alfriston, i. [93-97], ii. 165
— Lewes, ii. 37
— Yarmouth, ii. 42-44, 273
Stocks, Clapgate, ii. 202
Stonham Pie, Little Stonham, ii. 153
Sugar Loaves, Sible Hedingham, ii. 195
Sun, Canterbury, i. 292
— Cirencester, i. [180]
— Dedham, ii. 225
— Northallerton, ii. 248
Sunrising Inn, Edge Hill, ii. 299
Swan and Bottle, Uxbridge, i. [165]
— Charing, ii. 188
— Ferrybridge, ii. 81, 83
— Fittleworth, ii. 159, 183
— Haslemere, ii. 242
— Kirkby Moorside, ii. 267
— Knowle, ii. 231-233
— near Newbury, ii. 216
— Preston Crowmarsh, ii. 179
— Rickmansworth, ii. 214
— Sandleford, ii. 217
— Tewkesbury, ii. 288
— Thames Ditton, ii. 292
— Town Malling, i. [226]
— with Two Necks, Gresham Street, i. [54-56]
Tabard, Southwark, i. [77-79]
Talbot, Atcham, ii. 80
— Cuckfield, ii. 81
— Newark, i. [308]
— Ripley, ii. 213
— Shrewsbury, ii. 80
— Southwark, i. [79]
— Towcester, ii. 115, 243
Tan Hill Inn, Swaledale, near Brough, ii. 145
Tankard, Ipswich, ii. 110
Thorn, Appleton, ii. 138
Three Cats, Sevenoaks, ii. 191
— Cocks, near Hay, ii. 47
— Crosses, Willoughby, ii. 303
— Crowns, Chagford, i. [170-172]
— Horseshoes, Great Mongeham, ii. 197
— Houses, Sandal, i. [308]
— Jolly Bargemen, Cooling, i. [295]
— Magpies, Sipson Green, i. [317]
— Queens, Burton-on-Trent, ii. 114
— Tuns, Bideford, ii. 110
Town Arms, Eatanswill, i. [230]
Traveller’s Rest, Flash Bar, ii. 148
— Kirkstone Pass, ii. 148
Treaty House, Uxbridge, i. [161-169]
Trevelyan Arms, Barnstaple, ii. 40, 110
Trip to Jerusalem, Nottingham, ii. 134
Trouble House, near Tetbury, ii. 203
Turnspit Dogs, i. [48-51]
Turpin’s Cave, Epping Forest, i. [310]
Uncle Tom’s Cabin, Bluepitts, near Rochdale, ii. 197
Unicorn, Bowes, i. [269]
— Ripon, ii. 121
Verulam Arms, St. Albans, ii. 79
Vine, Mile-End, ii. 259
Vision of Piers Plowman, i. [16-18]
Visitors’ Books, ii. 291-308
Waggon and Horses, Beckhampton, i. [233], [237]
Wellington, Broadstairs, ii. 47
— Market Place, Manchester, i. [7]
— Rushyford Bridge, i. [60]
— Tewkesbury, ii. 287
Whetstone, Chiswick Mall, ii. 124
White Bear, Fickles Hole, ii. 203
— and Whetstone, Chiswick Mall, ii. 123-125
— Bull, Ribchester, ii. 119-121
White Hart, Adwalton, ii. 255
— Aylesbury, i. [62-67], [140]
— Bath, i. [254]
— Castle Combe, ii. 234
— Drighlington, ii. 255
— Eatanswill, i. [230]
— Glastonbury, i. [112]
— Godstone, ii. 30-34
— Guildford, ii. 55
— Hackney Marshes, ii. 257-259
— Scole, ii. 150
— Somerton, i. [185-187]
— Southwark, i. [226-228]
— Whitchurch, Hants, ii. 280
— Widcombe, i. [254]
— Yard, Gray’s Inn Road, ii. 106
White Horse, Eaton Socon, i. [267]
— Fetter Lane, i. [31], [219]
— Maiden Newton, ii. 289
— Shere, ii. 241
— Woolstone, ii. 211
White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, i. [253]
White House, Hackney Marshes, ii. 259
White Lion, Maidstone, i. [226]
White Swan, Henley-in-Arden, ii. 300
Who’d Have Thought It, Barking, ii. 204
Why Not, Dover, ii. 204
Widow’s Son, Bromley-by-Bow, ii. 125-127
Windmill, North Cheriton, ii. 89-91
— Salt Hill, i. [60]
— Tabley, ii. 179
Winterslow Hut, near Salisbury, ii. 102
Wizard, Alderley Edge, ii. 65-69
Wood’s Hotel, Furnival’s Inn, i. [31]
World Turned Upside Down, Old Kent Road, ii. 204
— near Three Mile Cross, ii. 204
Wright’s, Rochester, i. [223-225]
Yacht, Chester, ii. 77, 304
Footnotes:
[1] Woman-shoemaker.