Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in [Part V]., and look up any other references.
The shelves can all be fastened in, if desired, but a good way is to groove the top and bottom shelves into the sides and make those between movable (see Shelves, in [Part V].).
Fig. 300.
The back can be fitted by simply cutting a rabbet on the back edge of each side for the entire length (see Rabbet), and making the shelves of such a width that they will not project beyond the rabbet. A narrow piece can be screwed from the back lengthways, above the upper shelf, as shown in Fig. 300. The rest of the back can then be screwed in place (see Boring and Screws). The back, being too wide to be made of one board, can very well (for a plain case of this sort) be of matched boards or sheathing.[24] Do not force the back too tightly into place,—that is, crossways of the boards. Allow a little play for the expansion and contraction.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in [Part V].
Fig. 301.
A "knock-down" method of putting together with tenons and wooden pins (Fig. 301) is not very difficult, but requires care and accuracy. In the case of the bookcase just shown, the upper and lower shelves can be pinned through the sides, which will hold the case firmly, and the other shelves can be movable (see Shelves). A case fastened in this way can be readily taken apart. This method can be applied to other designs for bookcases and cabinets.