Fig. 303.
Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in [Part V]., and look up any other references.
The curves of the ends can be sawed by hand (see Turning-saw and Keyhole and Compass Saw), or better by band-saw and jig-saw at a mill, and smoothed with spoke-shave and file (see Spokeshave and File). The shelves (at least the upper and lower ones) should be grooved into the sides and glued (see Grooving and Gluing), although, as in the other cases already described, nails can be used, but the result will be inferior (see Nailing and Nail-set).
The plainness of the upright edges of the ends can be relieved by a little beading (Fig. 305), which you can do yourself or have moulded at the mill (see Beading).
Little brackets, screwed under the lower shelf at each end, as shown in Fig. 306, add to the stiffness of the case. A back can be fitted into rabbets as described above, but in this case it had best not come above the top shelf, a rabbet being cut on the under edge of the latter as well as in the sides. The bottom shelf can simply be made narrower and without a rabbet.
See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in [Part V].
The bookcase shown in Fig. 304 can be of any desired size and proportions. It can be of 7/8" stock, although the upright ends can well be of thin plank.
Fig. 304.