Fig. 123.
Shooting-Board.—This is useful for squaring edges and small surfaces and ends with the plane, and for jointing edges, the plane being pushed forward on its side (see Shooting-board, in [Part V].). It can be of any wood which holds its shape well. Clear white pine or mahogany is good. If carelessly made it will be of but little use. The stock must be planed free from winding. Several forms are shown in Figs. 122, 123, and 124.
Fig. 124.
Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in [Part V]., and look up any other references. The construction is plain (Fig. 122). Approximate dimensions are given, Fig. 122 being made of 7/8" stock, Fig. 123 of ½" and ¼" stock, and Fig. 124 of 7/8" stock. Screw the pieces together from the under side (see Screws). See that the stop or cleat a is put on at right angles to the edge b. Mark the lines for this accurately with knife or chisel. A groove is sometimes cut for this stop, but this is a refinement that is not at all necessary if you do your work well. This board must have a rabbet or groove cut out of the upper piece, as shown, to give room for shavings. In Fig. 123 the top board overlaps the ends of the cleats a trifle, which (with the spaces between the cleats) allows the escape of the shavings. Arrange some way to hold the board firmly on the bench. Care is necessary in using the shooting-board not to plane slices from your left hand. Guides, to attach to the plane to ensure square edges, can be bought and used instead of the shooting-board. Some of them are serviceable, particularly those adjustable at various angles.
Fig. 125.