Fig. 199.
Fig. 200.
First make the standard (Fig. 198) of any sound plank 1¼" to 2" thick and 12" or more in width. Get out the pieces to the dimensions before beginning to put together, the ends of the braces H being cut at a mitre (see Mitring). Square the line EF across the plank B at the middle (Fig. 199). Drive three or four stout wire nails (3" to 4" long, according to the thickness of the plank) nearly through the plank on this line. Stand the piece A on end under these nails and drive them through firmly into it (Fig. 200), keeping the two boards at right angles. Bore holes with a ¼" bit (see Boring) in each end of the pieces H, as shown, taking pains not to get them too near the edge. Screw these braces in place with screws from 2¼" to 3¼" long (according to the thickness of the plank), keeping the piece A at right angles with the plank B (see Screws). Screw this frame on the cross-pieces C and D, as shown. Nails can be used throughout, but screws are better. With plane, draw-knife, or spoke-shave (see Part V. for these tools), round the top edge of A.
Fig. 201.
The tilting-plank should be of spruce, ash, hard pine, or any strong wood, and had best be from 1½" to 2" thick, according to the length, which can be 12' or 14'. It should of course be planed. Next get out a few cleats 7/8" square, or thicker, and screw them on the under side of the tilting-plank at the middle (Fig. 201, which shows the under side of the plank), so that the spaces between them will be a little wider than the thickness of the upright piece A—just enough to allow the plank to tilt freely. Nail strips on the edge, to keep the plank from slipping off sideways, shaving a little from the edges of A at the top if necessary. Finally run over the edges with a plane (see Plane), and sandpaper the plank to prevent slivers.
Simply paint or oil and varnish (see Painting or Finishing).
A larger and more elaborate affair, adjustable to different heights, is shown in Fig. 202.
