One night we stopped at the house of a man who was said to possess $150,000 (£30,000) worth of land. The house was well enough. His two bare-legged daughters, girls of seventeen or eighteen, lounged about smoking pipes. I gave one a cigar. She replied, “I don’t keer if I do try it. I’ve allays wanted to know what a cigar smokes like.” But she didn’t like it. Apropos of girls, I may say that there is a far higher standard of morals among these people than among the ignorant elsewhere.
It was indeed a wild country. One day Goshorn showed me a hill, and a hunter had told him that when standing on it one summer afternoon he had seen in a marshy place the very unusual spectacle of forty bears, all wallowing together in the mud and playing at once. Also the marks of a bear’s claws on a tree. Game was plenty in this region. All the time that I stayed with Goshorn we had every day at his
well-furnished table bear’s meat, venison, or other game, fish, ham, chickens, &c.
There was a great deal of very beautiful scenery on Elk River, and some of its “incidents” were marvellously strange. The hard sandstone rocks had worn into shapes resembling castles and houses, incredibly like buildings made by man. One day I saw and copied a vast square rock through which ran to the light a perfect Gothic archway sixty feet high, with a long wall like the side of a castle, and an immense square tower. There are the most natural-looking houses and Schlösser imaginable rising all alone in the forest. Very often the summits of the hills were crowned with round towers. On the Ohio River there is a group of these shaped like segments of a truncated cone, and “corniced” with another piece reversed, like this:
These are called “Devil’s Tea-tables.” I drew them several times, but could never give them the appearance of being natural objects. It is very extraordinary how Nature seems to have mocked man in advance in these structures. In Fingal’s Cave there is an absolutely original style of architecture.
The last house which we came to was the best. In it dwelt a gentlemanly elderly man with two ladylike daughters. His son, who was dressed in “store clothes,” had been a delegate to the Wheeling Convention. But the war had
borne hard on them, and for a long time everything which they used or wore had been made by their own hands. They had a home-made loom and spinning-wheel—I saw several such looms on the river; they raised their own cotton and wool and maple sugar, and were in all important details utterly self-sustaining and independent. And they did not live rudely at all, but like ladies and gentlemen, as really intelligent people always can when they are free. The father had, not long before, standing in his own door, shot a deer as it looked over the garden gate at him. Goshorn, observing that I attached some value to the horns (a new idea to him), secured them for himself.
A day or two after, while descending the river, we stopped to see an old hunter who lived on the bank. He was a very shrewd, quaint old boy, “good for a novel.” He examined Goshorn’s spectacles with so much interest, that I suspect it was really the first time in his life that he ever fully ascertained the “true inwardness and utilitarianism” of such objects. He expressed great admiration, and said that if he had them he could get twice as many deer as he did. I promised to send him a pair. I begged from him deer-horns, which he gave me very willingly, expressing wonder that I wanted such rubbish, and at my delight. And seeing that my companion had a pair, he said scornfully:
“Dave Goshorn, what do you know about such things? What’s set you to gittin’ deer’s horns? Give ’em to this here young gentleman, who understands such things that we don’t, and who wants ’em fur some good reason.”