From N, on the back line, to H, place one-half of the full breast-measure, which is 22 inches; and at this point draw a line up and down, thus making the front line A-J.
From O to 6 is one-eighth of breast, 2⅝ inches. From 7 curve to 6, for the top of back, at neck; from K to 6 draw a line, and at 6 begin to curve the line for shoulder, raising it one-half inch above K to 8. Also commence to curve the arm-hole from 8, going inside of line one-eighth inch at 16, and thence past 15 and 4 to E.
Midway between K and G is point 16. Start to make the seam for the back from 16, past 17 to 1; the last point is 1½ inch from 1½. When it is desired to produce a narrow shoulder, raise the seam above 8 one-half inch, and back from 8 fully 1 inch, and draw the arm-hole from 18 to 16.
To draw the first side-body, place 1 inch from 1 to 2, and curve the line from 16 to 17; thence separate and curve nicely to 2.
In the centre, between G and E, mark point 4, and draw a line straight down, which will be 5; and, in the middle, between 17 and 4, fix point 15. Also take the distance from 2 to 5, and fix a point in the centre, which will be 3, and then draw a line from 15 to 3; curve a little on each side of these two lines, as shown.
In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as here given: From A to F is one-sixth of the breast-measure, 3½ inches; and the same amount from A to I; now, sweep from F to I, using A as pivot; from F to D draw a straight line, and place the same distance, as on the back shoulder from 6 to 8, on to F to 9, and then curve it a little above the line at 20; finish the arm-hole by curving it from 19 downwards past E. It will be seen that it runs over and in front of line E, and one-fourth inch below breast-line at 4.
For the front edge, commence one-fourth inch inside of straight line at I, and go gradually out to one-half inch at H, and in again until it touches line at J and 14.
Now to manage to fix the darts: Measure from 1½ to 1-2, to 3, and 3 to J; this will give 19½ inches. But as the measure is only 15¾, one-half of 31½, we take out the difference between these two widths in darts. This amounts to 2¾ inches, which we take out in two darts of 1⅞ inch each.
First find the centre between H and E, which fixes point R; and the centre, also, between R and E, which gives point P. This first dart commences 2¼ inches from J. Then put in one dart of 1⅞; inch. Between the darts, let the space be 1 inch, and then place the width of the other dart, which is also 1⅞ inch, and fix a centre in each dart.
From R draw a line through the centre of the first dart, and from P one through the centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram. The darts are started two-thirds of the distance up under the arm, but the front one is made one-half inch shorter.