Q is even with R, and from it to O draw the line a little lower.
Point P is also level with O; thence, forward, it is drawn so that the front point is either level with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the Figure, where it is two inches lower.
The darts are placed the same as on a waist. But below the waist line F they curve, as shown. The best way to produce a good result is to draw straight lines down from 11, 12, 13 and 14, drawing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. It will thus be seen that 23 comes nearly in the centre of the second dart, because more curve is here needed for the hips, while the space between the darts is drawn so that the distance between 24 and 25 is only a little more than at 12 to 13. In this way, when the darts are sewn up they will take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts.
When dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the arm draw a straight line down and let the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O. Also take out about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams, to curve them more to the shape.
From 15 to 20 a straight line is also drawn, and an equal amount is put each side of this line, over the hips, to R and O.
It will be noticed that point 18 is in the middle, between line E and the line K, or point S on Fig. 4; and point 15 is midway between 18 and line K; the width of the side-body, at the waist, is made wider; the line from 18 is always drawn straight down, then divide the distance from point 19 and 2, the centre of which is 20; and from 15 through 20 draw the other line.
FIG. 8. POLONAISE.
This is drafted in the same manner as the one given in Fig. 7. As, however, this is a long garment the amount of drapery must be increased; therefore below the hip line D we spring out till at bottom, point F, it amounts to one inch. At 4 there is one inch over line; at 6, on side-body, one inch; there draw a straight line from 4 down, through this inch, and curve the one-half inch over it. On the side, from 5 to 7, is 1½ inches, the same at bottom.
