Most Systems of proportion, thus far issued, are projected on the breast-measure. It will be evident, on investigating the proportions of the human figure, that a System based only on one size of the body, and that its width, can never lead to the best results.
When the height and width are equal it is immaterial which we use. But this is only the case on normal sizes, from 34 to 38 breast, as all deviations from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the widths.
The problem to be solved in using a proportionate system is to arrange the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use it for the heights.
In practice we find that the average forms, measuring from 34 to 38 breast, require and can be cut by the full breast-measure, as the lengths agree, in the majority of cases, with this size; but in larger and smaller sizes this breast-measure will either be too small or too large, therefore, in drafting any other sizes than those indicated, we must use the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite the full breast-measure, in order that the pattern in its length may be of correct size, and neither too small or too large.
Table of Sizes.
| Breast. | Size to Draft One-Half Breast-Measure. | Waist. |
|---|---|---|
| 30 | 15½ | 22 |
| 31 | 15⅞ | 22½ |
| 32 | 16¼ | 23 |
| 33 | 16¾ | 23½ |
| 34 | 17¼ | 24 |
| 35 | 17⅝ | 24½ |
| 36 | 18 | 25 |
| 37 | 18½ | 25½ |
| 38 | 19 | 26 |
| 39 | 19½ | 26½ |
| 40 | 20 | 27 |
| 41 | 20¼ | 28 |
| 42 | 20¾ | 29 |
| 43 | 21⅛ | 30 |
| 44 | 21⅝ | 31½ |
| 45 | 21 | 33 |
| 46 | 21⅞ | 34½ |
| 47 | 22¼ | 36 |
| 48 | 22¾ | 37½ |
| 49 | 23 | 38½ |
| 50 | 23¼ | 39 |
In considering the human body it must be allowed that sufficient and marked characteristics exist between a young girl and the full-grown woman—the slender, and the large, fleshy form. All these tend to establish that the first elements of a good System for constructing garments is a good proportionate standard.
