In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J, which is between H and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the full amount which will be about 2½ or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches below the hip-line.
In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous Figures.
FIG. 16. SACK JACKET.
This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the front. The correctness of the lines, and the simplicity of the process, will be of much benefit to our students. This method is the same as we have given in several different styles, and therefore it is drafted in a similar manner. It requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it.
Let us take a size—36 breast, 24 waist, with a length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from neck 15½ inches.
In drafting, first draw the line O-F.
From O go down three-fourths inch for the top of the back.
From the top of the back to D is the length to the waist, 15½ inches; from the same point down to the bottom of the garment measure 30 inches to F.
At D go in to point 14 1½ inch. Then from the top of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw one from 14 to F, curve slightly over the line below 14, past 20, to F. Make the width from 14 to 2 two inches, and run a line parallel with back-line from 2 to 29, and curve it a trifle, as shown on the Figure.