These drafts illustrate a new style of lady’s jacket, which will be acceptable to many for street wear. The style and general effect at once denote the character of the garment. The jacket is well adapted for outdoor wear. It is made with a moderate addition for double-breasted added on to the fore-part, and the button holes are worked in close together, as the buttons now used are so very small; therefore, on this jacket, they are placed only one inch apart.
The waist is medium length, and the skirt can be made to suit the height of the lady. A lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close together.
The pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket, or only a flap put on, leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening. In the latter case it can be ornamented with buttons. Pockets, however, are only put in when it is cut longer than Figure.
The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be regulated in width by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible.
The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running them to a point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom. Cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. It must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam. The sudden rise of a lady’s hip, and the marked difference between the size of the waist and of the body but a few inches below, make it extremely difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom for the prominence of the figure at this part of the body.
The bottom edge of this jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk, which is held on tight so that the edge may cling close to the dress-skirt.
The collar is cut like a coat-collar and the lapel rolls short. A narrow binding one-half inch wide is put on the edge on all goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material, the stitching looks more appropriate.
Fig. 22.
The button-holes run down to the bottom of the skirt. This form of jacket makes up well in fine diagonal or brocaded velvet.