The train, as now worn, is only cut a few inches longer than the walking length. It is turned up at the bottom, with a narrow hem only, and the V’s taken out at the seams are covered with ribbon.
Colored habits are being worn in rich shades of brown, olive and green—not too light. Blue and black are also worn. The small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred on account of their making up so satisfactorily. Dress meltons and tweeds are also worn, but the makes are not so appropriate.
One inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian exercise, to wear riding trousers. They are usually made of the same cloth as the habit, with a fly-front open to leg-seam, or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre, and a narrow strap at bottom.”
In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft. But in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists, and lengthen the skirt as on Figure 7 and draw the skirt like that on last Figure.
FIG. 32. CIRCULAR.
Draw lines O-5 and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and 1½ inch inside of line at the waist. Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and touching front-line at J. Draw along the top of the back from H to 1, and add to the pattern at 1, for seams, one-half inch. Draw from 1 to F and from 2, on the front shoulder, to F. From J, along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to 4. Now from 1 and 2 draw a line and make a point in the centre at 3. Apply the length from H to 5 for full length of what the garment should be, and using point 3 as a pivot sweep from 5 to the front for the lower or bottom edge; then square the bottom at 5, and in front at 4, as shown in the Figure.
Fig. 32.
If a seam is wanted draw a line through the centre from F and take out about 3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7 and 6 to 8.
For a close back, curve from H along the back to 1½ and thence to 5 at bottom.