"After tea, we walked out to view the city, the river, the mighty traffic of this modern Tyre, and 10,000 seamen talking far more languages than we knew anything about. Thus several days and nights passed away, and we found the people one of the most delightful in the world—frank, free, open-hearted and generous and hospitable to a fault. I am told that there is not a heartier people on the face of the earth than the half million inhabitants of Liverpool, and so far as my experience goes that is quite true. We accepted several invitations, and had glorious times among these people; we ran the whole town and saw many places of great interest and beauty. But from fifteen to twenty miles of dock, the busy river and the Great Landing Stage almost took our breath away. It is worth crossing the Atlantic to see the far-famed city of Liverpool!
"Everybody saw and knew that we had a wedding party along with us, and, indeed, my two daughters and their husbands were just like so many birds set free, when once they got ashore. Like the spirited singing birds of the British Isles, there was no end to their hilarity; and it was delightful to see them. Our entire party were very favorably impressed with all that we both heard and saw, and everybody was so very polite to us, and agreeable in all their ways. We now began to make excursions to see some of the fine sights of 'Old England,' and some of the grand castles and palaces of fame and renown. What seemed to impress us all most was the smooth, lawn-like appearance of the whole fair-faced country, which is the most polished upon the face of the earth. Beautiful England, indeed, reminds me of a well-cultivated garden, and it looks like a great garden, and nothing else. The houses and grounds of some of the nobility are flung open for the inspection of foreign visitors, and truly they are a delight to behold, with all their flower gardens, conservatories of plants, playing fountains, and other attractions too numerous to mention. Go where we might, nothing seemed more gratifying to our feelings than the polite attention and fine manners of all those with whom we came in contact. The sights and scenes round about us, and so much to charm the senses in a foreign land, in the delightful month of May, delighted us to the core, and made us think of the Garden of Eden, and the fabled, golden regions of the blessed. The stately homes of England—how beautiful they stand!—amidst the tall, ancestral trees, o'er all the pleasant land! Such is England, that has been polished for 1,000 years, till polishing can do no more!
"All the world has heard of 'Beautiful Wales,' and we determined to pass a few weeks among her enchanting scenery. We visited the Vale of Llangollen, the Vale of Clwyd, the Vale of Conway, saw Bettws-y-Coed, the Pass of Llanberis, and, indeed, the best things in all North Wales, including lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and glorious romance without end. The warm-hearted, impulsive Welsh people almost carried us all off our feet with their unbounded enthusiasm, and the tremendous warmth of their welcome. They are the greatest singers in the world. Indeed, all Wales is one sea of song, and they sing well, and they even dearly love to sing. They are a God-fearing race, and we never heard a Welshman swear—no, not even once. Here was something for our young people to learn, for it was so sweet to hear the name of the Lord mentioned only in terms of praise. Wales always reminded our entire party of the 'Delectable Mountains' of the Pilgrim's Progress, for the Welsh mountains were delightful to us.
"After we got through with all we cared about seeing in 'Beautiful Wales,' and among its warm-hearted people, we next moved away to the North to become somewhat acquainted with what is truly called 'Bonnie Scotland.' We passed around the highlands and the islands of that romantic country, and beheld the famous lakes and the lofty mountains, her deep waterfalls and historic straits and glens. We visited the land of Burns, in the South, or Lowlands, saw Edinburgh and Glasgow, and the home of Sir Walter Scott, on the Lower Tweed. Of a truth, Scotland is a beautiful, enchanting and enchanted land, and her warm-hearted, enthusiastic people stamp their impress on the hearts of all those who visit them, for all coming time.
We found the whole of the British Isles overrun with tourists in the summer time; but few failed to see Scotland, which has filled the whole world with its fame. There is something so peculiarly romantic about the 'Scotch Borders,' that our heads were almost turned, and where all the land seemed to be enchanted ground. Sweet Moffat and its grand surroundings can never be forgotten, nor the impression that they made on all our hearts. We also descended the beautiful Esk river, from Langholm, till we came to headwaters upon Eskdalemoor, where the intelligent and hospitable people are mostly shepherds, and, like all the rest of the Scotch, most exemplary in their attendance at church. The parish minister is the Rev. John C. Dick, and we were royally entertained by him to tea at the manse, and we had a good time generally.
"After leaving Scotland, we made our way over to Ireland, saw Belfast, Dublin, Cork, the Lakes of Killarney, and, indeed, the best of all that was to be seen in the Emerald Isle. I don't know whether a people can be too enthusiastic and warm-hearted, but if they can, these are the Irish at home.
"My good friend and brother, I began this long letter upon landing at Liverpool, in May. It is now September, 1876. We have all come back to Liverpool—to our first quarters here. We have had a glorious time roving over the British Isles these four eventful months. We intend to embark to-morrow on the 'Scotia' for New York. I intend to keep a journal on our voyage, and yourself and lady shall have a reading of it at once. We are all quite well, and, indeed, the trans-Atlantic trip has had the most salutary influence upon the health of our entire party. My next greatest desire is to return home to Buffalo, and we all hope to visit the British Isles at some future day, if God our lives shall spare. With our united love to yourself, lady and all other friends, I am yours in all Christian affection.
"BEULAH LINCOLN."
[CHAPTER XIX.]
