PREFACE
The Mount Everest Committee of the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club desire to express their thanks to Colonel Howard-Bury, Mr. Wollaston, Mr. Mallory, Major Morshead, Major Wheeler and Dr. Heron for the trouble they have taken to write so soon after their return an account of their several parts in the joint work of the Expedition. They have thereby enabled the present Expedition to start with full knowledge of the results of the reconnaissance, and the public to follow the progress of the attempt to reach the summit with full information at hand.
The Committee also wish to take this opportunity of thanking the Imperial Dry Plate Company for having generously presented photographic plates to the Expedition and so contributed to the production of the excellent photographs that have been brought back.
They also desire to thank the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company for their liberality in allowing the members to travel at reduced fares; and the Government of India for allowing the stores and equipment of the Expedition to enter India free of duty.
| J. E. C. Eaton | } | Hon. Secretaries. |
| A. R. Hinks |
CONTENTS
| PAGE | ||
| Introduction. By Sir Francis Younghusband, K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E., President of the Royal Geographical Society | [1] | |
| THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION By Lieut.-Col. C. K. Howard-Bury, D.S.O. | ||
| CHAP. | ||
| I | From Darjeeling through Sikkim | [23] |
| II | The Chumbi Valley and the Tibetan Plateau | [37] |
| III | From Khamba Dzong through Unknown Country to Tingri | [55] |
| IV | Tingri and the Country to the South | [71] |
| V | The Search for Kharta | [86] |
| VI | The Move to Kharta | [98] |
| VII | The Kama Valley | [112] |
| VIII | The Upper Kharta Valley and the 20,000-foot Camp | [130] |
| IX | The Return to Kharta by the Kama Valley | [146] |
| X | The Return Journey to Phari | [156] |
| XI | Back to Civilisation | [170] |
| THE RECONNAISSANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN By George H. Leigh-Mallory | ||
| XII | The Northern Approach | [183] |
| XIII | The Northern Approach (continued) | [203] |
| XIV | The Eastern Approach | [221] |
| XV | The Assault | [250] |
| XVI | Weather and Condition of Snow | [262] |
| XVII | The Route to the Summit | [273] |
| NATURAL HISTORY By A. F. R. Wollaston | ||
| XVIII | An Excursion to Nyenyam and Lapche Kang | [281] |
| XIX | Natural History Notes | [290] |
| XX | An Appreciation of the Reconnaissance. By ProfessorNorman Collie, F.R.S., President of the Alpine Club | [304] |
| APPENDICES | ||
| I | The Survey. By Major H. T. Morshead, D.S.O. | [319] |
| II | The Photographic Survey. By Major E. O. Wheeler, M.C. | [329] |
| III | A Note on the Geological Results of the Expedition.By A. M. Heron, D.Sc., F.G.S., Geological Survey of India | [338] |
| IV | The Scientific Equipment. By A. R. Hinks, F.R.S.,Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society | [341] |
| V | Mammals, Birds and Plants collected by the Expedition.By A. F. R. Wollaston | [344] |
| Index | [351] | |