Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, 1921

by Charles Howard-Bury; George Mallory; A. F. R. Wollaston

Wall-creeper
House martin
Sand martin
Rock martin
Alpine chough
Magpie
Black crow
Raven
Swift
Siberian swift
Cuckoo
Himalayan vulture
Lämmergeier
Sea eagle
Pallas' sea eagle
Black-eared kite
Barheaded goose
Ruddy sheldrake
Garganey
Wigeon
Pochard
Gadwall
Hill rock-dove
Chinese turtle dove
Tibetan partridge
Tibetan snow partridge
Blood pheasant
Black-necked crane
White stork
Ibis-bill
Painted snipe
Pin-tailed snipe
Brown-headed gull

C.—LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED BETWEEN JUNE AND SEPTEMBER, 1921, 12,000–20,400 ft.

Clematis orientalis, L.
Ranunculus pulchellus, C. A. Mey., var. sericeus, Hk. f. & T.
Ranunculus pulchellus, C. A. Mey.
Anemone obtusiloba, Don
Anemone polyanthes, Don
Anemone rivularis, Ham.
Geranium Grevilleanum, Wall.
Caltha scaposa, Hk. f. & T.
Delphinium Brunonianum, Royle
Aconitum gymnandrum, Max.
Aconitum orochryseum, Stapf, sp. nov.
Delphinium Pylzowii, Maxim.
Halenia elliptica, Don
Delphinium grandiflorum, L.
Hypecoum leptocarpum, Hk. f. & T.
Meconopsis horridula, Hk. f. & T.
Meconopsis grandis, Prain?
Meconopsis, sp.
Corydalis, sp.
Corydalis juncea, Wall.
Corydalis Moorcroftiana, Wall.
Arabis tibetica, Hk. f. & T.
Lepidium ruderale, L.
Arenaria ciliolata, Edgew.
Dilophia salsa, Hk. f. & T.
Cardamine macrophylla, Willd.
Arenaria Stracheyi, Edgew.
Silene Waltoni, F. N. Williams
Silene Moorcroftiana, Wall.
Arenaria musciformis, Wall.
Arenaria melandrioides, Edgew.
Polygonum islandicum, Hk. f.
Geranium collinum, A. DC.
Impatiens sulcatus, Wall.
Thermopsis barbata, Royle
Thermopsis lanceolata, R. Br.
Sophora Moorcroftiana, Benth.
Stracheya tibetica, Benth.
Astragalus strictus, Grah.
Oxytropis microphylla, DC
Gueldenstædtia uniflora, Benth.
Desmodium nutans, Wall.
Potentilla coriandrifolia, Hk. f.
Potentilla multifida, L.
Potentilla sericea, L.
Potentilla microphylla, Don
Potentilla peduncularis, Don
Potentilla Griffithii, Hk. f.
Spiræa arcuata, Hk. f.
Saxifraga Lychnitis, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga nutans, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga aristulata, Hk. f.
Saxifraga near S. saginoides, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga flagellaris, Willd.
Saxifraga Hirculus, L.
Saxifraga Lychnitis, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga fimbriata, Wall.
Saxifraga pilifera, Hk. f. & T.
Saxifraga Caveana, W. W. Sm.
Saxifraga microphylla, Royle
Saxifraga pallida, Wall.
Saxifraga umbellulata, Hk. f. & T.
Parnassia ovata, Ledeb.
Parnassia pusilla, Wall.
Eutrema Prewalskii, Hk. f. & T.
Sedum fastigiatum, Hk. f. & T.
Sedum trifidum, Wall.
Sedum crenulatum, Hk. f. & T.
Sedum himalense, Don
Epilobium palustre, L.
Epilobium reticulatum, C. B. Cl.
Pleurospermum Hookeri, C. B. Cl.
Scabiosa Hookeri, C. B. Cl.
Valeriana Hardwickii, Wall.
Aster, sp.
Aster heterochætus, C. B. Cl.
Allardia glabra, Dene.
Aster tibeticus, Hk. f.
Cremanthodium Decaisnei, C. B. Cl.
Aster diplostephioides, C. B. Cl.
Erigeron, sp.
Leontopodium fimbrilligerum, J. R. Drum.?
Leontopodium monocephalum, Edgew.
Leontopodium Stracheyi, C. B. Cl.
Anaphalis xylorhiza, Sch. Bip.
Anaphalis cuneifolia, Hook. f.
Tanacetum tibeticum, Hk. f. & T.
Senecio arnicoides, Wall. var. frigida, Hk. f.
Cremanthodium pinnatifidum, Benth.
Chrysanthemum Atkinsoni, C. B. Cl.?
Artemisia Moorcroftiana, Wall.
Sonchus sp.
Senecio glomerata, Decne.
Senecio (§ Ligularia) sp.
Senecio chrysanthemoides, DC.
Tanacetum khartense, Dunn, sp. nov.
Aster sp.
Lactuca macrantha, C. B. Cl.
Senecio sorocephala, Hemsl.
Saussurea gossypina, Wall.
Saussurea tridactyla, Sch. Bip.
Tanacetum gossypinum, Hk. f. & T.
Saussurea wernerioides, Sch. Bip.
Crepis glomerata, Hk. f.?
Saussurea graminifolia, Wall.
Senecio arnicoides, Wall.
Saussurea uniflora, Wall.
Morina polyphylla, Wall.
Saussurea glandulifera, Sch. Bip.
Lactuca Dubyæa, C. B. Cl.
Lactuca Lessertiana, C. B. Cl.
Cassiope fastigiata, D. Don
Daphne retusa, Hemsl.
Rhododendron lepidotum, Wall.
Rhododendron setosum, Don
Rhododendron near R. lepidotum, Wall.
Rhododendron campylocarpum, Hk. f.
Rhododendron cinnabarinum, Hk. f.
Rhododendron lanatum, Hk. f.
Rhododendron arboreum, Sm.
Rhododendron Thomsoni, Hk. f.
Cyananthus incanus, Hk. f. & T.
Glossocomia tenera, DC.
Cyananthus pedunculatus, C. B. Cl.
Campanula modesta, Hk. f. & T.
Campanula colorata, Wall.
Campanula aristata, Wall.
Androsace chamæjasme, Hort., var. coronata, Wall.
Androsace villosa, L. var.?
Androsace strigillosa, Franch.
Primula minutissima, Jacq.
Primula Buryana, Balf. f. sp. nov.
Primula Wollastonii, Balf. f. sp. nov.
Primula pusilla, Wall.
Primula sikkimensis, Hook, microform
Primula capitata, Hook.
Primula capitata, microform.
Primula uniflora, Klatt
Primula Dickieana, Watt.
Primula obliqua, W. W. Sm.
Primula indobella. Balf. f.
Primula minutissima, Jacq.
Primula glabra, Klatt
Primula Younghusbandii, sp. nov.
Primula tibetica, Watt.
Primula denticulata, Sm.
Primula sikkimensis, Hook.
Primula nivalis, Pallas, var. macrocarpa, Pax.
Gentiana amœna, C. B. Cl.
Gentiana ornata, Wall.
Gentiana sp. Probably new but the material is too imperfect to decide this.
Gentiana Elwesii, C. B. Cl.
Gentiana robusta, King
Gentiana micantiformis, Burkill
Gentiana nubigena, Edgew.
Gentiana tubiflora, Wall., var. longiflora, Turrill, var. nov.
Gentiana stellata, Turrill, sp. nov.
Gentiana tenella, Fries
Swertia cuneata, Wall.
Arenaria Stracheyi, Edgew.
Swertia Kingii, Hk. f.
Swertia Younghusbandii, Burkill
Swertia multicaulis, D. Don
Nardostachys grandiflora, DC.
Trigonotis rotundifolia, Benth.
Eritrichium densiflorum, Duthie
Microula sikkimensis, Hemsl.
Onosma Waddellii, Duthie
Onosma Hookeri, C. B. Cl.
Verbascum Thapsus, L.
Lancea tibetica, Hk. f. & T.
Lagotis crassifolia, Prain
Pedicularis trichoglossa, Hk. f.
Pedicularis Elwesii, Hk. f.
Pedicularis megalantha, Don, forma
Pedicularis megalantha, Don, var. pauciflora, Prain
Pedicularis Roylei, Maxim.
Pedicularis siphonantha, Don
Pedicularis cheilanthifolia, Schrank
Pedicularis tubiflora, Fischer
Pedicularis integrifolia, Hk. f.
Pedicularis globifera, Hk. f.
Incarvillea Younghusbandii, Sprague
Escholtzia eriostachya, Benth.
Nardostachys Iatamansi, DC.
Dracocephalum breviflorum, Turrill, sp. nov.
Dracocephalum tanguticum, Maxim.
Dracocephalum heterophyllum, Benth.
Dracocephalum speciosum, Benth.
Veronica lanuginosa, Benth.
Nepeta discolor, Benth.
Nepeta Thomsoni, Benth.
Atriplex rosea, L.
Polygonum vaccinifolium, Wall.
Polygonum viviparum, L.
Polygonum tortuosum, Don
Polygonum affine, Don
Polygonum amphibium, L.
Stellera chamæjasme, L.
Euphorbia Stracheyi, Boiss.
Orchis cylindrostachys, Kränzl.
Liparis sp.
Goodyera fusca, Lindl.
Dendrobium alpestre, Royle
Pleione Hookeriana, S. Moore
Orchis Chusna, Don
Roscoea purpurea, Sm.
Iris nepalensis, Don
Iris goniocarpa, Baker
Iris tenuifolia, Pallas
Lloydia tibetica, Baker
Lloydia sp.
Fritillaria Hookeri, Baker
Fritillaria near F. Stracheyi, Hk. f.
Fritillaria cirrhosa, Don
Allium, sp.
Allium Wallichii, Kunth
Allium Govenianum, Wall.?
Allium cyaneum, Regel
Larix Griffithii, Hk. f.
Dryopteris Linneana, C. Chr.
Dryopteris Filix-mas, var. serrato-dentata, C. Chr.
Cryptogramma Brunoniana, Wall.
Calophaca crassicaulis, Benth.
Glaux maritima, L.
Androsace sessiliflora, Turrill, sp. nov.
Astragalus oreotrophes, W. W. Sm.
Thamnolia vermicularis, Schær.
Stereocaulon alpinus, Laur.
Thelochistes flavicans, Norm.

Note.—The material of some of the numbers was insufficient for accurate determination; in a few cases the material necessary for comparison was on loan, and in the case of one or two genera, such as Aster, revision of the North Asian and Indian species will have to be undertaken before certain plants can be definitely named. The numbers in the list coming under these categories are named “—— sp.”

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

March 7, 1922.

---

INDEX

• Abdul Jalil, photographic assistant, [59], [319]
• Abruzzi, Duke of the, [2], [3], [5], [155]
• Acchu, cook, [103], [133], [178]
• Acclimatisation to high altitudes, [277], [308], [341]
• Alpine Club, [1], [7], [14–19], [305]
• [Altitude], effects on human frame, [5], [102], [104–5], [137–8], [154–5], [199], [204], [206–7], [253–4], [276], [307–8], [315], [341]; on breathing, [200], [243–4], [277]; on tinned fish, [50]
• Ammo-chu, river, [39], [44], [291]
• Aneroids, [341]
• Ang Tenze, coolie, [113], [149–51], [166]
• Ari, bungalow, [33]
• [Arun, river], [89], [104–5]; gorges, [110], [125], [221], [297], [298]; [see Bhong-chu]
• Avalanches, [231], [267–9], [308–9]
• Bailey, Major, [31], [314]
• Bamtso, lake, [49]
• Bell, Sir Charles, [16], [24], [166]
• Bhompo's, Buddhist sect, [39]
• [Bhong-chu], river, [64–5], [69–71], [89–90], [93], [99], [100], [110], [159], [161], [295]; upper valley, [320], [322]; [see Arun]
• Bhotias, [24]
• Bhotia ponies, [27]
• Bhotia Kosi, river, [338]
• Birds, [290–303], [312], [344–6]
• Brahma Putra, river, [61]; see [Tsangpo]
• Bridges, [69], [93–4], [103], [115], [123], [159–60], [191]
• Bruce, General, [1], [3], [13], [17], [154], [312]
• Buchan, J., [19]
• Buddhism and Buddhists, [25], [67–8], [173]; books, [41]; red cap sect, [173]; yellow cap sect, [58], [173]; regard for animal life, [59], [80], [166], [290]; [see Monasteries, prayer-wheels]
• Bullock, G. H., [19], [26], [52]; [see Mallory]
• Bullocks, [48], etc; [see Transport]
• Burrard, Sir S., [10–12]
• Carpo-ri, mountain, [227]; ascended, [117], [229–35], [268]
• Chamlang, mountain, [140]
• Chandra Nursery, [32]
• [Chang La (North Col),] [142]; first view of, [204], [207], [212], [220]; way to, [233–40], [246–8], [256]; camp on, [259–60]; best route to, [273–4], [311–12], [334–5]
• [Changtse, North peak of Everest], [142], [213], [215], [233–4]
• Chelmsford, Lord, [16]
• Chheten Wangdi, interpreter, [25], [39], [69], [91], [95], [112], [162], [179]
• Chinese in Tibet, [38–9], [71–2], [173]; in Nepal, [173]
• Chitayn, coolie, [212]
• Chöbuk, monastery and bridge, [82], [95], [190], [191], [312], [327]
• Chödzong, village, [86]
• Chog La, [106], [121], [129], [299–300]
• Choksum, village, [324]
• Chomiomo, mountain, [52], [54], [140], [166]
• Chomolhari, mountain, [45], [48], [60], [64], [167], [263]
• Chomolönzo, mountain, [114], [116], [149–51]
• Chomolungma (Mount Everest or Makalu), [13], [24], [107], [224]
• Chomo-Uri (Mount Everest), [64]
• Chorabsang, mountain, [77–8]; (=Cho Rapsang, [331])
• Chortens, [40], [66], [174], [286], etc.
• Cho Uyo, mountain, [73], [76], [78], [101], [207], [219], [330]
• Chöyling monastery, [194]
• Chulungphu, village, [89], [104]
• Chumbi valley, [25], [37–44], [170], [177–8]; village, [38]; fauna and flora, [291]
• Chushar Nango, village, [60–61], [131], [134], [295]
• Chuphar, village and monastery, [327]
• Chu-tronu, [123]
• Collie, J. N., [17–18]
• Compasses, [342]
• Conway, Sir M., [4], [5]
• [Coolies], [23–5]; behaviour, [47], [146], [156], [213], [216], [222–3], etc.; as carriers, [92–4], [113], [122], [158], [284–6]; [see Transport]; in mountaineering, [84], [188], [195], [203–6], [212], [230], [251] ff., [332]
• Crampons, [207–8], [272]
• Cups of tea, as measures of distance, [108]
• Curios, [67], [157]
• Curzon, Lord, [1], [19]
• Dak, village, [93]
• Dalai Lama, the, [16], [173]
• Darjeeling, [23–28], [179]
• Dasno, coolie, [234]
• Desiccation, [51]
• Dochen, bungalow, [49], [168]
• Dokcho, village, [321]
• [Donka monastery], [40–42]
• Donkeys, [48], [64], [65], etc.; [See Transport]
• Dorje, cook, [50]
• Dorji Gompa, coolie, [202], [256]
• Doto nunnery, [51]
• Doya La, the, [88], [104], [336]
• Dram, village, [325]
• Drophung monastery, [323]
• Dug pass, [50]
• Dukpa, cook, [134], [188]
• Dunge pokri, island, [127]
• [Dzakar (or Zakar) Chu, river], [93–5], [297], [333]
• Eaton, J. E. C., [17]
• Equipment, [20], [315], [341]
• [Everest, Mount], [1–2], [183]; position, [9], [13]; height, [10–12]; names, [13], [64], [225]; seen from Khamba Dzong, [54], [56], [183–4]; from Shiling, [64], [186–88], [217], [230], [263]; from Rongbuk Valley, [192], [263–4]; from Kama Valley, [116], [226]; local ignorance of, [107], [112], [116]; structure, [192–4], [203], [215], [310]; best season for ascent, [153], [248], [270]; difficulties of, [154], [276], [308]; plans for, in 1921, [250–52]
• — — Committee, [16] ff.
• — — Expedition, origin of, [14–16]; value of, [5]; objects, [17–18]; cost, [19]; equipment, [20], [315], [341]; results, [179–80], [310–12], [338], [341]. [See Survey]
• Everest, Sir G., [13]
• Farrar, Captain J. P., [14], [17], [19], [315]
• Finch, Captain G., [19], [313], [315]
• “Finger,” the, station, [335–6]
• Fourteen lakes, valley of the, [106], [121]; fauna and flora, [299]
• Fowkes, Sergeant, [28]
• Freshfield, D. W., [1], [14–16], [18]
• Fuel, [80], [105], [171], [211], [237], [247], [273], [331]
• Gadompa, village and bridge, [160–61]
• [Galinka, village and monastery], [40]
• [Gandenchöfel monastery], [108], [131]
• Gauri Sankar, mountain, [288], [326], [331]
• Gautsa, bungalow, [40]
• Gelupka (= Yellow Cap) sect, [173]
• Geshe Rimpoche, Lama, [40]
• Ghoom, [29]
• Glaciers, ancient extent of, [128]; characteristics, [194], [197], [218]; atmosphere, [200], [243], [270]
• Gnatong, village, [35–6], [178]
• Gosainthan, mountain, [64], [101], [284], [322–3]
• Graham, Dr., [30–31]
• Graphic, the, [19]
• Gujjar Singh, surveyor, the, [319], [323–7]
• Gurkhas in Tibet, the, [71], [95], [106]
• Guru Rimpoche, saint, [173]
• Gyachung Kang, mountain, [207], [219], [330]
• Gyalzen Kazi, interpreter, [25], [56], [133], [137], [163], [177–8], [188], [190], [202], [323]
• Gyangka-nangpa, house, [62], [184]
• Gyanka range of mountains, [184]
• Haldane, J. S., [341]
• Halung, village, [86–7], [103], [240]; valley, [339]
• Hari Ram, explorer, [319], [324]
• Harvest rents, [161], [174]
• Hatarana, steamer, [24]
• Hayden, Sir H., [338]
• Harvest rents, [80], [83–4], [99]
• [Heron, Dr. A. M.], [20], [26]; expeditions from Tingri, [74], [77–85], [98], [120], [325]; first expedition to Kharta, [86–95], [162], [164], [179–80]; in Upper Kharta Valley, [253]; returns by Kama Valley, [146–153], [337], and Teesta Valley, [164], [37]; note on geological results, [338–340]
• Himalaya, [7–8], [11], [304] ff.; H. and the Alps, [194]
• Hinks, A. R., [17], [20], [315]; notes on scientific equipment, [341–2]
• Holdich, Sir T., [15]
• Hopaphema, landowner, [91–3], [104], [108], [111–12], [157–8]
• Hot springs. See [Kambu], [Tsamda]
• Howard-Bury, Colonel C. K., [13], [15], [17], [20], [243]; author of the general narrative of the expedition, [23–180;]; expeditions from Tingri, [75–85]; first expedition to Kharta, [86–95]; expeditions from Kharta, [106–111]; visits Kama Valley, [112] ff.; ascent of 19,500 ft. ridge, [116]; of Kama Changri, [136–7]; of Lhakpa La, [140–145], [257] ff.
• Huc, abbé, [293]
• India Office, [16]
• India, Government of, [16], [23]
• — Survey of, [20], [26–7], [341]
• Interpreters, [25], [47]; discretion of, [108]
• Isaacs, Mr., [39]
• “Island,” the, [209], [213], [219]
• Jack, Colonel E. M., [17], [20], [315]
• Jannu, mountain, [117], [135], [140]
• Jelep La, [36], [37], [178], [290], [291] note
• Jetsun-Nga-Wang-Chöfel, saint, [109], [325]
• Jongpens, [174–5], [283], [324]
• Jonsong, mountain, [47], [140]
• Kabru, mountain, [26], [47], [168]
• Kala-tso, lake, [51]
• Kalimpong, village, [29–30]
• Kama Valley, [112–119], [146–52], [225–7], [311], [339]; fauna and flora, [300–01]
• Kama Changri, mountain, [114], [136–7]
• Kama-chu, river, [122–4]
• [Kambu] hot springs, [40–43]; valley, [291]
• Kanchenjunga, mountain, [9], [46], [117], [135], [140], [185]
• Kanchenjhow, mountain, [52], [54], [104], [166]
• Kang-chu, river, [325]
• Kangchen and -chung passes, [326]
• Kangdoshung glacier, [115–16]
• Kangshung glacier, [149–51]
• Karpo La, [147]
• Karro Pumri, mountain, [326]
• Kartse, mountain, [141]
• Kellas, A. M., [14], [18], [26], [341]; illness and death, [46–49], [52–54], [164], [321]
• Khamba Dzong,fort and village, [13], [24], [53–57], [96], [164]
• Kharkung, village, [161]
• Kharta, [24], [90]; first visit to, [88–93]; headquarters of the expedition, [104–5], [110]; survey of, [323], [327]; valley formation, [339]; fauna and flora, [299], [301–03]
• Khartaphu, mountain, [330]
• Khe or Khetam, village, [50–51]
• Kheru, [51]
• Khombu pass, [76], [78–9], [312], [339]
• — valley, [150–51]
• Kimonanga, village, [124]
• Korabak, rock, [124]
• Kuti (= Nyenyam), village, [324]
• Kyetrak, village and valley, [74–77], [327], [331]
• — glacier, [70], [77–79], [312]; river, [79]
• Kyishong, village, [65], [102]
• Lachen, [56], [337]
• Lalbir Singh Thapa, surveyor, [319], [322], [327]
• Lamna La, [81], [327]
• Langkor, village and temple, [281], [323]
• Langma La, [112–13], [130], [224]
• Langra, rest-house, [37], [178]
• Lapche, village and monastery, [287], [325–6]
• Lapche Kang, mountain, [115], [284–5], [325]
• Lashar, village, [161]
• Lebong, races at, [27]
• Leeches, [34–5], [123–4], [126], [300], [337]
• Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), [138], [161], [273–4]; first visits to, [240–249], [255–6]; camp on, [140–44], [257–8], [261]
• Lhasa, [16], [24], [173], [174]; road to, [48–49]
• Lhonak peaks, [52]
• Lhotse, mountain (S. peak of Everest), [116], [213]
• Lingga, village, [57], [163–4]
• Lingmatang, plain, [40], [44], [291]
• Longstaff, Dr. T. G., [1], [5], [314]
• Lumeh, village, [93–4], [159]
• Lungchen La, [322]
• Lungdö, village, [110], [125]
• Lunghi, [167]
• Macdonald, David and family, [31], [38], [177]
• LMakalu, mountain, [104], [116], [118–19], [137], [186], [225–6] etc.; glacier, [151]
• [Mallory, G. H. L.], [19], [26], [313]; reconnoitres N. approach to Everest, [74], [181–220]; ascends Ri-Ring (23,050 ft.), [205–7], [264]; moves to Kharta, [102–106]; reconnoitres E. approach to Everest, [117], [221–249]; back to Kharta, [130]; ascends Kama Changri, [136–7]; final assault and ascent of North Col, [131–145], [250–261]; leaves Kharta, [153]; views on weather conditions, [262–72]; on the route up Everest, [273–79]
• Mammals, [290–303], [312], [344], etc.
• Mani Walls, [40], [174], etc.
• Maps of Tibet, [62]
• “Marigolds, Field of,” [119], [152]
• Matsang, village, [125]
• Meade, C. F., [5], [17], [19]
• Mendalongkyo, [129]
• Mende, village, [57]
• Menkhap-to and -me, villages, [322]
• Menlung pass, [327]
• “Metohkangmi,” [141]
• Mila Respa, saint, [287]
• [Monasteries], [99], [113], [173]. See [Donka], [Galinka], [Ganden Chöfel], [Rongbuk], [Shekar Chöte], etc.
• [Monsoon], [31], [48], [88], [91], [139], [216], [248], [262] ff. See [Rainfall]
• [Morshead, Major H. T.], [20], [25–27], [54], [65], [75], [96]; trip to Nyenyam, [97], [108], [281–9], [323–5]; at Kharta, [112]; survey of Kharta Valley, [131–2], [135]; first ascent of Lhakpa La, [130], [230–49]; ascends Kama Changri, [136–7]; second ascent of Lhakpa La, [140–144], [253–8]; map by, [312], [338]; account of survey by, [319–28]
• Mountain sickness, [207], [258], [323]. See [Altitude]
• Mountaineering, [2–4], [6–8], [305–6]
• [Mules], lent by Government, [27–8]; breakdown of, [33–4]; Tibetan, [32–33], [48], etc. See [Transport]
• Nangba (= Khombu), pass, [77], [331]
• Narsing, mountain, [26]
• Nathu La, [37]
• Nawang Lobsang, first Dalai Lama, [173]
• Nepal, [13]
• Nepalese coolies, [25], [122]; invasion of Tibet, [71], [73]; traders, [122], [127], [324]; herdsmen, [126]
• Nezogu bridge, [100], [102]
• Ngawangyonten, official, [94]
• Nieves penitentes, [78]
• Nila pass, [61], [184]
• Noel, Major J. B. L., [14], [314]
• Nomads, [51], [171]
• North Col of Everest, [212], [215]. See [Chang La]
• North cwm of Everest, [200], [203–4]
• North peak. See [Chang-tse]
• North-East Arête, [215], [227], [235], [250–51], [259], [274–6], [310]
• Norton, Major E. F., [313]
• Nuns and nunneries, [51], [80], [83], [166]
• Nyenyam, [73], [97], [108], [283–4], [297], [324]
• Nyima Tendu, coolie, [113], [149–51], [234]
• Oxygen for climbers, [154], [277], [307–8], [315–16], [341]
• Padamchen (= Sedongchen), [33]
• Padma Sambhava, saint, [337]
• Pashok, [173]
• Pawhunri mountains, [46], [52], [54], [166]
• Pedong, [31–2]
• Pekhu plain, [322]
• Peshoke, bungalow, [29]
• Pethang Ringmo, [116], [138]
• Pethangtse, mountain, [117], [147]
• Phari, fort and village, [24], [35], [45–8], [168]; plain, [46], [292]
• Pharuk, district, [323], [327]
• Phema, village, [38]
• Philadelphia Ledger, the, [19]
• Photography, [68], [72–3], [156], [216–17], [314], [315], [38], [342–3], etc.; perils of, [74–5]; surveying by, [320], [329–30]
• Phuri, village, [322]
• Phuse La. See [Pusi pass]
• Pilgrims, [70], [99], [121]
• Plants, [290–302], [312], [346–50], etc.
• Pö-chu, river, [284–5], [297–8], [323–4]
• Ponglet, view from, [188], [218], [263]
• Pilgrims, [27], [34], [48], [87], [101], etc; See [Transport]
• Poo, coolie, [75], [113], [156], [178]
• Popti La, [106], [126–7], [300]
• Postal arrangements, [96–7], [131], [135]
• Prayer wheels, [39–40], [53], [91], [98], [110], [174], [289]
• Primus stoves, [142–3], [154], [208], [331], [121]
• Pulahari, village, [281]
• Pulme, [94]
• Pumori, mountain, [209]
• Punagang monastery, [39]
• [Pusi pass], [77], [79], [289] (= Phuse La, [327], [330])
• Quiok, pass, [159]
• Rabkar-chu, river and glacier, [115]
• Ra-chu, river, [70], [330]
• [Rainfall], [29], [37], [56], [99], [105], [262] ff.
• Rawling, Major, [13–14]
• Reading, Lord, [23]
• Rebu, village, [87], [103]; valley, [339]
• Rhenock, [32]
• Ri-Ring, mountain, ascended, [205–6], [270], [311]
• Richengong, village, [38], [291]
• Ronaldshay, Lord, [32], [179]
• [Rongbuk], glacier, [84]; central and W. branches explored, [194–220]; E. branch, [179], [142], [216–18], [247–9], [273–4], [334–6]; stream from, [199], [218]
• — monastery, [83]
• — valley, [82], [191], [339]
• Rongkong, village, [63]
• Rongli, bungalow, [32], [178]
• Rongme, village, [63]
• Rongshar, valley, [77], [288–9], [298], [325–6]
• Ruddamlamtso, lake, [121], [128]
• Rugby, Tibetan boys at, [172]
• Ryder, Colonel C. H. D., [13], [319]
• Sakeding, village, [121–22], [127–8]
• Samchung, pass, [106], [121], [129]
• Sand dunes, [58], [63–4], [295]
• Sandakphu, [12], [13]
• Sanglu, coolie, [254], [256–7]
• Sedongchen, village, [33–4]
• Senchal, [29]
• Serpo-La, [164], [337]
• Shao La, [112], [118], [153]
• Sharto, village, [75], [330]
• Shassi (= New Yatung), [38]
• Shatog, village, [162]
• [Shekar-Chöte, monastery], [67–8], [94]
• Shekar Dzong, fort and village, [45], [66–7], [96], [295]
• Sherpa Bhotias, coolies, [24], [188], [224], [252]
• Shidag, nunnery, [51]
• Shigatse, [51], [55], [174]
• Shiling, [51], [161], [188]. See [Everest, Mount]
• Shung-chu, river, [79]
• Shurim Tso, lake, [114]
• Sikkim, survey of, [27], [320–21], [327]; journey through, [29–36]; flora of, ibid.
• Siniolchum, mountain, [46]
• Sipri mountains, [99]
• Skis, [158]
• [Snow], [248], [254], [264–8]; temperature of, [270]; powdery, [171], [231], [243], [256]; powdery snow and wind, [139], [142], [144], [159], [167–8], [259–60], [271], etc.
• Snow-blindness, [103], [167], [171]
• Snowfall, [37], [171]
• Snow line, [56]
• Snow men, the abominable, [141]
• Shigatse, [137], [211–14], [232], [243], [254], [265], [270]
• Somers Cocks, E. L., [16]
• Somervell, H. T., [312], [313]
• Strutt, Colonel E. L., [313]
• Sun's rays, [270], [308]
• [Survey work of expedition], [179], [312]. See [Heron], [Morshead], [Wheeler]
• Sutso plain, [99], [321–22]
• Takda, cantonment, [29]
• Tamba Sanye, saint, [281], [323]
• Tameness of animals, [59–60], [76–77], [80], [83], [88], [94], [131]
• Tang La, [48], [167], [323]
• Tang-pün-sum, plain, [48]
• Tangsham, [114], [117], [152]
• Targyeling, village, plain, [324]
• Tasang, village, [79], [289], [327]
• Tashi Dzom, [95]
• Tashilumpo monastery, [51], [173]
• Tashishong, [325]
• Tatsang, nunnery, [52], [165–6]
• Teesta Valley, [27], [29–30], [164], [337]
• Temperature, [79], [308], [342]
• Tents, airlessness of, [143], [154], [258]
• Thermometers, [342]
• Thrashing, [164]
• Thung-La, [282]; fauna and flora, [297]
• Tibet, [13], [36], [170] ff.; geology of, [338]; Government, [173–4;]; helps the expedition, [16], [24], [45], etc.
• Tibetans, [170] ff.
• Tibetan beer, [57], [125], [156]; bread, [125]; burial, [74], [133]; climate, [49], [176]; coinage and currency, [47], [59], [123]; coolies, [223–4]; houses, [38], [89]; bread, [321]; marriage, [74]; meals, [48], [59], [62], [67], [101], [108], etc.; mules, [177–9]; ornaments, [73], [101], [107]; ponies, [72], [55], [101], [176]; superstitions, [66], [72], [109], [122], [141], [174], [282]; tea, [41], etc.
• Times, newspaper, [19], [156]
• Tingri, newspaper, [70–75], [95–101]; plain of, [70]; its fauna and flora, [96], [295–7]; origin of name, [282], [323]
• Tinki, fort and village, [58], [162]; birds of, [294]; pass, [60], [162], [321]; flowers of, [295]
• Trangso Chumbab, rest-house, [65]
• [Transport], [27–8], [34–5], [45], [48], [60], [65], [69], [86], [92], [158–9], [165], [173], [284]. See [Coolies], [Mules],[Yaks]
• Trintang, village, [326]
• Tropde, village, [326]
• Tsakor, village, [70]
• [Tsamda], [99], [321]
• Tsampa, [172–3], [222], [337]
• Tsang, province, [70]
• [Tsangpo, river], [319–20]
• Tsering, five peaks, [326]
• Tsogo, [65], [159]
• Tsomotretung, lake, [61]
• Tsong Kapa, monk, [173]
• Tulsi Dass, gardener, [32]
• Tulung, village, [323]
• Tuna, rest-house, [48]
• Turubaz Khan, surveyor, [319], [321]
• Wakefield, Dr. A. W., [313]
• Waugh, Sir A., [10], [12], [13]
• Weather. See [Monsoon], [Rainfall],[Wind]
• West cwm of Everest, [208–9], [212], [214]
• [Wheeler, Major, E. O.], [20], [26], [52], [164], [252], [320]; expedition to Kyetrak, [74], [77–81], [98], [330–33]; to Rongbuk Valley, [102], [333–36]; discovers E. Rongbuk glacier, [217], [240], [247–8], [334]; arrives at Kharta, [249]; to Lhakpa La, [140–44], [257]; to Chang La, [144–5], [258–61]; returns by Kama Valley, [146–153], [337], and Teesta Valley, [164], [337]; map by, [312], [328], [338]; account of photographic survey by, [329–337]
• [Wind], [50], [72], [75], [147–8], [171], [178], [265], [308], [342]. See [Snow]
• Wollaston, A. F. R., [20], [26]; returns with Raeburn to Sikkim, [56]; rejoins at Tingri, [74], [75], [96]; trip to Nyenyam, [97], [108], [323–25]; described by him, [281–89]; at Kharta, [249]; to Lhakpa La, [140] ff., [257–8]; returns by Kama Valley, [146–153], [165], [342]; natural history notes by, [290–303], [344–350]; collections, [312]
• [Yaks], [61], [81], [161], [171], [286], [294], etc.
• Yaru, river, [56–7], [61–3], [101–2]
• Yatung, [38–9], [177]
• Younghusband, Sir F., [1], [15–17], [19], [20]
• Zachar-chu. See [Dzakar-chu]
• Zambu, village, [81]