I went among them accompanied by the native guide, and saw that many of them carried painted poles, from the top of each of which was suspended a bag containing the ashes and bones of some relative, which they had brought from their far-off homes, and were taking to the Ganges to be thrown into the (to them) sacred river.
I looked at a group of handsomely dressed women. Among them was a bride, who had a profusion of silver ornaments in her nose and ears, and on her arms and toes. My appearance among this party seemed to entertain them very much, judging by their looks and their chattering.
We passed through great fields of the castor-oil plant, cotton, and mustard, and at 9 P.M. rolled into the big station here, and were soon at the hotel enjoying the comforts of a wood fire.
This is the most dreadful climate I know of—eighty degrees to ninety degrees during the day, and down to sixty degrees at night. The hotels have rooms only on the ground-floor, which is paved with stone, and any thing but comfortable.
This city has great historic interest, having been ravaged many times by conquerors, beginning with Tamerlane, who burned it, and killed a hundred thousand of its inhabitants, men, women, and children.
Taking a drive, I saw monkeys running along the walls, and was everywhere beset by a great lot of beggars, dancing girls, and merchants wanting to sell shawls, jewelry, and many other articles.
We have been here several days, constantly driving about and seeing magnificent palaces, tombs, and mosques. In one of the great marble palaces was a large hall in which was erected the famous Peacock Throne in the year 1638.
The following account of it is given by Tavernier, who, in the seventeenth century, travelled extensively in the East, and saw all the wonders that he relates:
"The largest throne, which is set up in the hall of the first court, is in form like one of our field-beds, six feet long and four broad. The cushion at the back is round like a bolster; the cushions on the sides are flat. I counted about a hundred and eight pale rubies in collets about this throne, the least whereof weighed a hundred carats; but there are some that weigh two hundred. Emeralds I counted about one hundred and sixty, that weighed threescore, some thirty, carats. The under part of the canopy is all embroidered with pearls and diamonds, with a fringe of pearls round about. Upon the top of the canopy, which is made like an arch with four panes, stands a peacock with his tail spread, consisting all of sapphires and other proper colored stones; the body is of beaten gold enchased with several jewels, and a great ruby upon his breast at which hangs a pearl that weighs fifty carats. On each side of the peacock stand two nosegays as high as the bird, consisting of several sorts of flowers, all of beaten gold enamelled. When the king seats himself upon the throne there is a transparent jewel with a diamond appendant, of eighty or ninety carats, encompassed with rubies and emeralds, so hung that it is always in his eye. The twelve pillars also that uphold the canopy are set with rows of fair pearl, round and of an excellent water, that weigh from six to ten carats apiece. At the distance of four feet, upon each side of the throne, are placed two parasols or umbrellas, the handles whereof are about eight feet high, covered with diamonds; the parasols themselves are of crimson velvet, embroidered and stringed with pearls.