[CHAPTER XXXI.]
JAFFA.
Jaffa, January 26, 1890.
HAVING spent two days in Jerusalem industriously sight-seeing, one noon-day I took a seat in the fine carriage provided, my only companion being a dragoman, and we were soon bowling along over the fine road to Jaffa.
The engineers are surveying for a railroad from Jaffa to Jerusalem and the people expect that it will be completed in a year. The journey may then be made in an hour. The moon came up at 6 P.M., and as we passed along the road through the mountains I saw sights and scenery not to be soon forgotten. I felt safe, for every few miles there was a stone watch-tower, occupied by guards, and often we met them on the road, mounted and armed with guns. It was a ride of thrilling interest, for over this route have passed many times the heroes of old, and on yonder field of Sharon, now smiling with flowers, was once fought a great battle. The carriage rushed on, and half-way we changed horses. Being very cold, I walked ahead for a couple of miles, meeting caravans and single camels, and numerous donkeys laden with wood, and men coming from the fields with their oxen and their ploughs. The black-eyed natives eyed me curiously, but said nothing, and soon the carriage overtook me, and I was so well warmed up by my walk that I felt comfortable for the remainder of the trip.
We were detained for two days at Jaffa on account of the rough sea, which prevented steamers from landing, but being in a comfortable hotel, I was content and spent the time looking about the ancient city.
A young Arab offered to sell me a tame hyena for twenty francs. It was nine months old, and as playful as a young dog. At last the sea became smooth, and I entered one of the heavy boats, and the three strong Turkish boatmen put me over the rough waters in good style on board the Russian steamer Poccir from Alexandria bound for Odessa.