[Preface]

It seems customary in a book of travel to make frequent allusions to other voyagers who have journeyed over the same ground, or at least the same district, and to make constant references to them, and give copious quotations from their works. Of course we ought to have gone to the British Museum before starting on our travel, and there read up all books which in the least bore upon the country which we were going to visit. We omitted to do this, firstly, because we preferred to observe things for ourselves, from our own individual standpoint, unprejudiced by the way in which other people had observed them; and, secondly, from the far more potent reason that we made our actual start in a great hurry, and had little enough time for any preparations whatever.

However, on our return to England we thought well to check the information we had garnered. So we duly provided ourselves with readers’ tickets for that institution, and went to the British Museum Library, and got down every book which seemed in any way to bear upon the country we had wandered over, regardless of the tongue in which it was written. It was a surprise to us to learn (and may we add that the surprise was not without its pleasant savour?) that of all the volumes in that collection not one covered the route which we took during summer through Arctic Lapland. Many had gone near it, from a gentleman of bygone date who wrote in Latin, to Mr. Paul du Chaillu, who chats about the larger part of the Scandinavian Peninsula. But we seemed to have stumbled across the one bit of Europe which has not been pilloried on paper at one time or another, and so we here venture to take up a couple of note-books which were originally made for personal gratification, and amplify them into a volume of letterpress and sketches which may haply interest others.

[Contents]

[CHAPTER I]
PAGE
London to Vardö, with a few Examples of how
Plans may be changed1

[CHAPTER II]

Across the Varanger to Elvenaes, with some Observations
on the Fishing of the Finner Whale,
and a Narrative of Travels with a Jew19
[CHAPTER III]
By Canoe to the Neiden, with an Account of the Russian
Lapps’ Daubsfest at Boris Gleb38
[CHAPTER IV]
From the Neiden Elv to Enare See, with Pungent
Comment on the Habits of Finnish Carriers52
[CHAPTER V]
Enare See to Enare Town in a Square-Sail Viking
Ship76
[CHAPTER VI]
Into the Land of Horrible Flies: a Narrative of
Personally-Conducted Travel98

[CHAPTER VII]

Into the Land of Horrible Flies—Continued133
[CHAPTER VIII]
In Touch with the Genuine Nomad, with some Remarks
upon his Domestic Deer, his Treasure-Hoards,
and the Decay of his Practice in Sorcery147
[CHAPTER IX]
A Précis of Lappish History, and a Narrative of
Transit by Raft and Swamp to Ivalomati167
[CHAPTER X]
On to Pokka, with an Introduction to Prince Johann
of Lapland190
[CHAPTER XI]
The worst Marches of all213

[CHAPTER XII]

Down the Rapids to Kittila Town239
[CHAPTER XIII]
Through to the Sea: a Progress in Post-Carts, with
Interludes of River-Ferries257

[Log] Track across Swamp