They seemed to be also enjoying a quiet cup of coffee; for the long-necked globular pipkin, in which it was usual to boil that berry, stood in the broad moonlight, and was frequently applied to. I sat down in the shade of my own hut, and amused myself watching them until every piece of cloth had been duly measured and divided, the last drop of coffee strained through the bit of dried grass stuffed in the mouth of the bottle-shaped coffee-pot, and their conversation upon profit and loss had been adjourned until another night. Then cautiously retiring to their rest, they stretched themselves upon their mats laid upon the sandy mattress of the earth, and wrapping themselves up in their white tobes, were soon numbered among the corse-like sleepers that in every direction were reposing around. Over these, as if on watchful guard, the glistening iron heads of their spears shone in the moon’s bright light, and seemed to be ready, self-acting, to protect their dreaming owners. Round polished shields were also ranged carefully against long heaps of salt-bags, or suspended from the coarse fringe of saddle-staves that surmounted the stores. The yellow bodied couchant camels filled the centre of the camp, generally employed in triturating the sweetened cud of the day’s repast, in the process producing the slightest noise and gentlest action, necessary to give a greater contrasted stillness to the otherwise quiet scene before me.
CHAPTER XXXI.
Journey from How to Mulkukuyu, general direction south-west, time marching, four hours and a-half.—Forest on right bank of Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the Hippopotamus lake.—Journey from Mulkukuyu to Azbotee, general direction west, time marching, five hours and a-half.—Lee Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian Alps.—Reflections.
May 20th.—Being nearly the first on the line of march, as we were the morning before, we again started from our halting-place some hours before sunrise, and after descending the precipitous side of the ridge of Billin or How, we entered upon an extensive and densely-wooded country to the west. For the first few miles, the march was across a very stony district, the mimosa-trees were low and ragged-looking, and not growing so closely together as we found them to do as we advanced. After proceeding some little distance, four ostriches, of a light-brown or stone colour, trotted away on our approach. The long thick legs seemed large in proportion to the body of the bird, and gave me the idea of a light frame, suspended upon two powerful spring propellers. The progress of the two hind legs of a trotting horse, separated from the rest of the body, if it can be imagined, will represent the gait of these birds when running. Another novelty to me, was a large mass of elephants’ dung, that, like a large Stilton cheese, was carried on the shoulder of one of the Hy Soumaulee, who brought it on purpose for me to see, and who claimed a present accordingly for his trouble. I had also given to me on this march, a lump of soft fresh gum-arabic, nearly a pound in weight, and of most agreeable flavour. It reminded me in taste of a green ear of corn.
I had ridden so far on my mule, but was now glad to dismount, as the trees began to be very numerous and troublesome, for as they were without exception, the long-thorned mimosa, my hat was continually being snatched off my head, or my Arab frock torn from my shoulders. There was some danger, too, to my eyes, for I stood a very great chance of having them severely injured by the sudden return of the armed boughs, dragged forward in the first instance by the shouldered spear of the individual who preceded me, as he carelessly pushed his way among the trees. Our path was a very monotonous one, something like travelling through a close wood in England. The shade was agreeable enough, and we certainly did come sometimes to open spots, where a little greensward refreshed the foot by its softness.
After walking nearly three hours, the number of my informants, crying out, “There is the Hawash! there is the Hawash!” increasing as we advanced, we came, greatly to my surprise after all that had been told me, very suddenly upon the edge of the low bank, which overhung the much-talked-of, long-wished-for river. A few moments before we came in sight of the stream, I noticed that Ohmed Medina was repeating a short prayer of thanks, for having reached it in safety, in which I heartily joined, and then lifting up my head, the yellow water of the Hawash was the first object I saw. My escort, and others of the Kafilah, had, at some distance, begun to race with one another to get down first, so that when we came, thirty or forty of them were already swimming about in the stream. Some confusion, and a good laugh was occasioned at the hurry of this bathing party to get out, when, by a few shouts, and waving our hands, Ohmed Medina intimated that it was my intention to celebrate our arrival in true Arab style, by firing off my pistols and carabine. This ceremony being duly performed, each report followed by a loud shout, I and three or four others sat, sheltered from the sun, under the bank close to the water’s edge, until the camels should come up. When I had ceased firing, the swimmers resumed their bath; though frequently invited, I did not choose to exhibit my white skin in all its unrobed singularity, to the critical remarks of a lot of black Dankalli.
We sat waiting for the camels above an hour, which I occupied in taking a good survey of the little reach before us, and in getting some information relative to the general character and course of the river. Its channel is a mere cut, or canal about fifteen feet deep and thirty yards broad, in the alluvial plane which extends some miles on either side. The water itself, at this period of the year, was only from two to three feet in depth; and in many places, large stones showed their summits above the surface. A fringe of various kinds of trees hung over from the banks on either side, and each extremity of that portion of the river I saw, seemed to be lost among their drooping, dark green foliage.
The first camel that came up, made a terrible mess of it, for he tumbled down the short, but steep bank, and occasioned such a dust I thought some explosion must have taken place. After this accident we thought it best to get out of the way, and accordingly forded the stream. My mule, who knew where she was as well as any of us, came cantering up with the first string of camels, and being a thirsty kind of a body was not long in letting herself carefully down the slope. I caught her easily as she stooped her head to drink, and made her carry me across, for as the ford took a long diagonal direction and the bottom abounded with stones, I did not choose to hazard my bare feet among them. The opposite bank was of exactly the same character as the one we had just before left, and my mule having surmounted it by a few snatching, tear-away steps, I dismounted and got under the shade of a large tree, from whence I could have a good view of the passage of the Kafilah.
The camels crossed without any other accident, and immediately I had seen the last of the stores over I followed Ohmed Mahomed, who had previously come up to congratulate me on being in the dominions of Sahale Selassee, king of Shoa.