Market day in Aliu Amba.—Toll of wares.—Court of Piepoudre.—Appearance of the market.—The salt money.—Character of the different vendors.—The prices of several articles.—No Jews in Abyssinia.
July 29.—The next Friday, feeling somewhat stronger, I determined to accompany Walderheros to the market-place. As in England, the days of such weekly meetings, for the convenience of sale or barter, vary in the towns of Shoa. In Aliu Amba the Mahomedan Sabbath is found most convenient, whilst Ankobar market is held on Saturdays, and in other places Mondays or Tuesdays are the appointed days. Nothing, I think, characterizes a peaceful people, or a healthy social condition, more than these weekly meetings for the mutual convenience of buyers and sellers. The security of property is so apparent, honest industry and prudent economy so evident, that even in the most unfavourable positions for the increase of knowledge, and the advance of civilization, wherever these evidences of a people’s foresight and good disposition exist, I never despair, but that when other more favourable opportunities are vouchsafed, the soil will not be found unfruitful of the good seed that may be scattered upon it. This struck me the more forcibly, from my previous sojourn in Adal; for with what different feelings did I witness the busy restlessness, and the not inharmonious murmur, of the multitude of smiling contented beings that were gathered in the market-place to-day, from those I have experienced, when startled by the sudden cry, the confused rush to arms, and the silent squatting of my Dankalli associates, either in the sullen muttering calahm circle, or else, as with loud yells of defiance, they formed the line of immediate fight; either of which characterized the only public assemblies I ever witnessed among them.
Putting on my Arab cloak I followed Walderheros, who had been long engaged, previously to our starting for market, selecting the kind of dollar most in reputation among the Shoans. We proceeded along a narrow winding lane, between high hedges of the kufah bait, and senna shrubs, that assisted in forming the enclosure belonging to each little cottage, that stood upon the banks on either hand; playing about the wickets of which children without number attested the peace and plenty enjoyed by the people of Shoa. Population is the criterion of human happiness; wherever is real enjoyment of life, the offspring of man will always be most abundant.
A very short descent led us to an equally winding road, but broader, and having more of the character of a public way, than the little lane from my house. Here we met market people hawking their wares, with loud cries; or loud-talking disputants, carrying on a strong argument, as they battered away, with heavy but harmless blows of their long sticks, upon the goat skin sacks of grain or cotton, with which numerous donkeys before them were laden, and which were being conveyed to the market-place.
The low hum of distant voices gradually increased into a murmur, and then into a hubbub, as we entered the market-place, which was a large plain, occupying the southern half of the table rock, bare and stony, except in the centre, where a high circular hedge of a thin pipe-formed euphorbia fenced in the Mahomedan burial place of the town. Its limits, besides, were well defined by a low stone wall, carried all around, and upon that portion of it facing the entrance of our road into the market place, sat Tinta, wrapt up in the customary manner in his tobe, save his head and one arm, with which he gave directions respecting the receiving of toll, or deciding such cases of dispute as might arise in the course of the market. As soon as he saw me with Walderheros, he called me to him, and as I approached, he shifted his position so that I might sit upon the sun dried ox skin by his side. A favoured visitor, honoured thus by a seat upon the bench.
I observed that everything that is exposed for sale in the market pays a kind of duty. This is generally either in kind, or an equivalent in salt pieces, the only money in Shoa. Grain is examined by the Governor, to whom it is brought, who determines the amount to be taken as toll, and which is regulated according to certain customary laws. Such toll is measured by single handsful, a species of measure very usual in Shoa, and called “tring.” Butter is submitted to a similar process, the officer appointed scooping out of the gourd-shell, in which it is generally brought, a quantity with his fingers, which is then put into a recipient jar that stands by his side. The salt merchants, cattle sellers, and, in fact, all dealers, pay for the convenience of bartering their goods, and during the day large heaps of ahmulahs, and of market produce, accumulate around the feet of the Governor, whose perquisites of office they appear to be. A less profitable employment for him is the settlement of disputes, as very long-winded debates sometimes occur, before a settlement can be established between the disputing parties; and for this business no fees are demanded, although I have no doubt, such a situation of general referee in matters of the kind, is very productive of private gifts.
People in the habit of attending the market compromise their tolls, by a regular payment of from one to three ahmulahs weekly, and they are then allowed to bring whatever produce they choose. I also understood that the people of the town were exempted from any imposition of toll for such articles they exposed for sale.
After amusing myself for some time, watching the proceedings at this place for the “receipt of custom,” and had witnessed a decision in this counterpart of the ancient Piepoudre courts of feudal times, I left Tinta for a while to stroll about the market.
Excepting the dress and appearance of the people, the articles exposed for sale, and the language in which the transactions were carried on, the Abyssinian market, in its more prominent character, exactly resembles similar assemblages of people in English towns; the same confused hum of voices, busy ever changing figures crossing and recrossing, stooping to look at wares, or pushing through the crowd to make way to the seats of those selling that which they may require. All is bustle and apparent confusion, over which loud cries of hawking sales-people reach to the very outskirts of the town.
I pushed along with the rest, followed closely by Walderheros, carrying the goat skin bag over his shoulder, in which to carry home the ahmulahs we were in search of, in exchange for our dollar. For a moment as we passed, groups would suspend their conversation to turn and look at the novel figure that had intruded among them, and strangers, to whom the white man was a curiosity, would inquisitively ask from the townspeople all particulars of my nation, and my business in Shoa. No impertinent interruption, or shouting in derision, made my visits to this busy scene unpleasant; a short whisper, that I was a balla durgo, and a friend of the Negoos, was sufficient to restrain the most curious from pressing around, even when, on pretence of directing me in choosing the ahmulahs, which was an opportunity that the more careful frequently sought, to introduce themselves to my notice, and which was generally, in such cases, the preliminary to some request for medicine.