In pasting the pieces of paper together, there should be about ¼” laps. Care must be observed in the pasting that there are no detached places, places where the paste does not stick well, as the hot air will escape. In the model given, one section was blue, two white, one red, and three white, making seven in all. Sometimes the colors are worked in differently. Half of a section will be one color, and the other half another, and next to each will be placed some contrasting color. Still further breaking up can be done until quite a design is worked out.

It is possible to decorate a plain balloon with surface design, but it must be bold and not over done. An example or two may be helpful, [Figs. 188, 189, 190]. Yellow and black, black and red, purple and white, green and white, and many other good combinations can be selected, but two or three colors are better than many. The best grade of tissue paper is very much superior to the cheap, as the tendency of the cheap to split out is very unsatisfactory and there are thin porous spots. The French tissues, so called, are the best, and they come in many shades of good colors.

Parachutes are other forms of balloon. They do not ascend from the ground, but are released up in the air and float downward. Sometimes a current of air will catch one and carry it far up and away. They are made like an umbrella covering, sometimes in sections and again in one piece, [Figs. 191 and 192]. When made in sections, they are very much like the upper one-third of a balloon. They are made from the size of your hand to beauties that are eight feet across; when made of brilliantly colored paper, they are very interesting. They have a weight suspended underneath to keep them upright in the descent. Parachutes are usually taken up on a kite line and are released well up in the air. The usual method of shaking them off the line is not as good as a definite release by a tripping string from the ground. If large ones are used, one at a time is sufficient and is simple to release. The parachute is tied with a bow-knot to the kite line with the extra string and as this string is pulled the knot comes untied and the parachute is released. When smaller ones are used they can be tied in a series and the lowest down on the string or the highest can be released, then the next, and so on. The same string can be used to tie on a long series.

No matter how small the parachute, it must have its suspension strings and weight. We have tried parachute showers that have only been a partial success, thus far. A bunch of these little parachutes each with its own string tied to the kite line, have been released, but in pulling them up they are so liable to get twisted up, that when released they cling together. If they could be carefully laid in some kind of an apron that would protect them from the breeze, I am sure they might be tumbled out so as to separate without entanglement. It is a very pretty sight to see a large bunch turned loose, each spreading its tiny night cap to the air as it starts downward. They should be of all colors, and for this purpose the one piece models and one foot in diameter are best. There is always a scramble for the souvenir parachutes when they are released. If one had a rubber stamp outfit, it would be interesting to print something on their cover. Thread would be used for the suspension cords and perhaps a shingle nail for the weight.

Another method of release given elsewhere is sometimes used by the Chinese and Japanese, is effected by using a lighted punk such as used to set off firecrackers; when the punk burns down far enough, it burns off a supporting thread, thus releasing the object held.

CHAPTER XII.

REELS.

Reels are very convenient for most kite flying and quite necessary for high flying where so much string must be let out and wound in again, but an absolute necessity for events where racing is an important feature. Many devices have been used at our tournaments and some have been very clever. A simple and effective reel can be rigged up in a kerosene box. The box is long enough to allow a seat for the kite flyer, a foot brake can be arranged, and an all around satisfactory reel can be made at light expense. [Fig. 193] shows such a reel fully equipped. A portion of the top is cut away so as to expose the spool of the reel, it being necessary to see if the line is winding properly, to see if it is nearly off, and to watch for knots or entanglements. A measuring device might also be attached, similar to cyclometers used on bicycles. The end of the box is partially cut away but not the full width of the box, the portions remaining at the sides preventing the kite line from getting off the ends of the spools. The portion remaining should be a little wider than the thickness of the flanges of the spool. The axle will usually be a broomstick owing to the ease with which it may be obtained and being hardwood, is very satisfactory. A piece of pipe can be used but is hard to drill thru for the pins that hold spool and crank to axle, also the holes that take pins on each side of box to prevent slipping endwise. Iron washers are used on the outside of box and between spool ends and inside of box.