HOW TO MIX AND APPLY THE COLORS IN GRAINING THE VARIOUS WOODS HEREIN REPRESENTED.
As oak and black walnut are the principal woods imitated in graining, we have given them a prominent place and careful attention in our work, for when the ability to produce imitations of those properly is once thoroughly attained, the graining of other woods becomes a comparatively easy task.
First:—In preparing work for graining, great attention should be given to the shellacking of all knots and other parts containing any inequalities of surface, whether from the exudation of pitch, gum, or other substance; unless this precaution is observed the pitch or gum will force itself through a great many coats of paint.
OAK.
Illustrations of [OAK] include Plates 1-17.
For oak-graining the priming coat should be white, mixed (not too thickly) with pure lead and linseed-oil; then, when thoroughly dry, and ready for a second coat of paint, much care should be observed in well stopping or puttying with white lead or common putty, as may be thought best, leaving all nail-holes or other inequalities well filled, pressed in and rounded up, so that when thoroughly sand-papered it will leave the surface entirely smooth and level. For a second coat of paint, a little yellow chrome or Rochelle may be added, sufficient to make it a light cream color, using for a body pure lead, turpentine, oil, and a small quantity of japan, making the paint a trifle thicker than the priming coat, having it well mixed and strained, so that it shall not contain any lumps or foreign substance. Here let us say that the habit of undertaking to do graining work on two coats of paint is entirely wrong; good work cannot by any possibility be performed unless there shall have been at least three coats laid on as a foundation,—otherwise it will not wipe out clean, but will appear muddy and foul when completed.
For a third coat of grained work, if a very light oak is desired, add to the same mixture of lead, oil, etc., sufficient yellow as before, to produce a delicate cream, adding to that a very small quantity of American vermilion, or Venetian red. After laying on the second coat, the work should be well and carefully sand-papered, puttying (as before suggested), if necessary. When the third coat has been on two or more days, and has become thoroughly hard and dry, use upon the surface very fine sand-paper, so that a perfectly smooth finish may be obtained.
For light-oak graining-color, use equal parts of raw umber and raw Sienna, and if a little darker shade is desired, tone with burnt umber, grinding into the same a little Paris, or common whiting, which gives it body and holds it together. A little beeswax or brown Windsor soap dissolved in turpentine may be used if desired, but in a small quantity.