[30] The language which they speak in the Desert, differs from that spoken in the capital. Sidy Sellem, who was considered as a scholar among them, was obliged to repeat several times, before he could make himself understood by Effendy, who interrogated him in the presence of the Emperor.
The Arabs of the tribe of Telkoennes are the worst situated of any that I have seen in all the Desert. They live in the midst of mountains of sand, raised by the winds. One would think they endeavoured to hide themselves from the light of day, so difficult is it to penetrate into their retreats, or to find the way out of them. The plains in their neighbourhood abound with prodigious serpents. Three times I had occasion to see them frighten our camels; and the animals, when affrighted, fled, and obliged the baker and myself to take long races in order to assemble them again.
At last we approached to the famous city of Guadnum, of which I had heard so much talking for a long time past. It was across a cave of rocks, that I saw at a distance a city built upon an eminence, the environs of which announced formidable fortifications. When we drew near it, a little after, I could see no more than earthen bulwarks, almost all broken down. We observed some of the inhabitants, who appeared at small windows opposite to us. They seemed to be meditating some wicked action. The chief of the village, having learned that Sidy Sellem was the leader of this small caravan, came to meet him, attended by four negro slaves. They carried on their heads a basket of dates, which their master had presented as a mark of respect to him. "Is this Guadnum which I see?" I asked at Sidy Sellem. "No," replied he, "it is Fort Labat. The city is very near; you may observe it." Indeed, we arrived there two hours after.
This city, so much longed for, is the refuge of all the most resolute rebels of the different tribes. It is divided into two parts. The lower part is commanded by Sidy Adalla, There was a governor for the higher part, which is situated upon a little hill, and which very much resembles Fort Labat. Almost all the houses are built in the same manner. Four great walls occupy an immense space of ground. All those of the same part, build a house which will only admit light by the door and the top, which remains uncovered. The four walls which surround the house are very high. There is only one gate in all their circumference. This is guarded by large dogs. Every particular person has his own dog to protect himself; and without this precaution, although enclosed within walls, would have no security against the depredations of any neighbour more daring, or more skillful than himself.
I could not reconcile this general mistrust with the considerable trade which was carried on in this city. I saw two markets in it, which certainly were not inferior in any respect to the largest fairs in the provinces of France. Though specie of different kinds circulates here, I am inclined to think that their trade is principally carried on by barter. Fine wool may be found here in great abundance, and, above all, woollen stuffs, half white and half crimson, which are used by the inhabitants for their dresses. The merchants who purchase them, in order to sell them in the interior parts of the country, give camels in exchange.
Their ordinary profit is four hundred per cent.; and on these articles they gain much less than on wheat, barley, dates, horses, sheep, goats, oxen, she-asses, tobacco, gunpowder, combs, small mirrors, and other toys, which are not carried to a great distance. They are consumed in certain small towns of the country, in each of which a market is held on fixed days. What is very surprising is, that the Jews are almost the only people who carry on this trade. They are, however, exposed to the most humiliating insults. An Arab snatches the bread from[31] the hand of an Israelite, enters his house, makes him give him a handful of tobacco, often beats him, and always behaves to him with insolence; and yet the poor Jew must suffer with patience. It is true, that he indemnifies himself after his own manner; that is to say, by the address with which he disposes of his merchandise to advantage, and by the cunning by which he overreaches an Arab. The latter, in general, are exceedingly stupid.
[31] It was at Guadnum that I first saw bread again. Whether brick or stones be scarce, or they have not learned the method of laying their ovens with these materials, I cannot say; but their custom is, to make little flint-stones, red hot, and on them bake their dough. The bread is pretty good. That which the emperor caused to be provided for the consul, appeared to be baked in a different manner, though I cannot say how. I found it more agreeable to the taste.
I met with a Moor in this city, who happened to have been at the sea-shore the very time of our shipwreck. I owe him an acknowledgment, for he treated me well. His sister-in-law, Paphye, appeared to take a very lively concern in my situation. During eight days I spent in Guadnum, she employed me in grinding some corn. She entertained me well, and, I may say, showed me numberless instances of care and attention. She wished much that I would stay with her. But nothing can equal the generous assistance I received from Aaron the Jew, and his wives, notwithstanding the ingratitude which they have often experienced from many Christian slaves.
I left Guadnum, after having rested there eight days. On the road to Mogador, I found nothing but villages or castles, situated, for the most part, on very high mountains. At a distance, one would suppose them superb edifices, but, on coming nearer, we found them much the same with the others. We were very well entertained. The nearer we approached the city, however, we found the less hospitality. There is reason to believe the inhabitants are afraid of the affluence of foreign travellers.
We were sixty-six days on this march; my strength was exhausted, my limbs swelled, and my feet almost in a state of suppuration.[32] I had infallibly sunk under it, if my master, to encourage me, had not constantly said to me, "Keep up your heart, there is the sea, behold the ships; take courage, we will be soon there." Hope supported me; and, in a moment, when I had not the least expectation of it, at length I perceived that element of which I had so much cause to complain, and which was still to be the arbiter of my fate. Sidy Sellem, without doubt, wished to enjoy my surprise. On coming out of a labyrinth of broom, we arrived at the top of some hillocks of sand.—Oh! you who read this history, which is too true, you never can form an idea of the joy which I felt at that moment, when I again saw the flag of France, and that of other nations, flying at the stern of the different ships, at anchor in the road of Mogador, which I still knew by no other name than that of Soira. "Very well! Brisson," said my master to me; "Very well!—Speak, wont you?—Are you satisfied?—Do you see these vessels?—Do you want those of France?—I promised to conduct you to the Consul, you see I have kept my word: but what? you give me no answer!"—Alas! what could I answer? my tears could not find vent; I could not articulate a syllable. I looked at the sea, the flags, the ships, the city, and I thought that all was a dream. The unhappy baker, not less exhausted, and equally astonished with myself, mingled his sobs with mine. My tears trickled down upon the hands of the generous old man, who had made me so happy with an agreeable surprise.